29/09/2016

INDEPENDENT BEAUTY - KETA GUTMANE AW16


Back in March, on a cold but sunny day, we were invited to visit the Void Showroom, taking place during Paris Fashion Week, to meet the Future of Fashion, designers from all over the world, showing their radical & innovative creations. This was the second time we were invited but our excitement was not less vivid. Unfortunately, on this particular day, Charles was ill so I (Yann) went there on my own to discover the Autumn Winter 2016/17 pieces of Keta Gutmane, a Latvian designer whose Fashion really & deeply means something to me (to us!). For her, the colour black is un art de vivre and for me too, in a way. I am not a hardcore fan of black but I do love being all dressed up in this colour. Wearing black in Summer or Winter doesn't matter to me. Black is universal, timeless, effortless & it refers to the creations of some of my favourite Fashion designers such as Rei Kawakubo if I had to give you only one name. I had no doubts that I would love everything about Keta Gutmane's new collection and indeed, I was delighted by the creations I had before me. A whole range of black pieces enhanced by the addition of neutral tones throughout the collection. You have to consider the designer's work as a whole and not as separate collections season after season. Keta's idea is to build a beautiful & sharp wardrobe thanks to new black pieces every season. However, this time, as well as her masculine-inspired tailored pieces, she is adding more femininity to her collection with, for instance, long dresses paired with wide cropped trousers; undoubtedly, the Gutmane Touch. 




With this AW16 collection, Keta Gutmane is subverting classics, twisting them to come up with a very modern silhouette. A new uniform inspired by the neutral colour palette so widely in use in the 1980's; hues of beige & brown with a touch of an intense black. All these colours being framed by cream whites. Her garments are an exploration of textural contrasts, a play on materials with pieces mixing cupro (an artificial textile fiber), wool & wrinkled technical fabrics.

These are words from an interview, Keta Gutmane gave to Deux Hommes, a website dedicated to emerging Fashion designers. It could help you picture the Gutmane's vision of a woman's wardrobe and her taste for duality. "As a designer, I am fascinated by free and independent women, so in my designs I am interested in creating a strong characters to represent the image of an independent woman. I want women’s wardrobes to have a different character, one that is stronger and more laconic or short-spoken, so that clothes do not dominate but instead compliment the individual".





In our first article about Keta Gutmane's work, we already told you how important & rewarding it is to get the chance to meet a Fashion designer & his/her Team and be able to have a genuine dialogue about his/her creations. This is perhaps the best way to understand a collection. Of course, you may avoid interpretations & may want to forge your very own vision of a collection but meeting people with a genuine vision is something we wouldn't trade places for anything in the world. The words I had with her & her Team might have been few but they are priceless and contribute to what we love to name "The Emotion Of Fashion". During these precious minutes I had the chance to get some comments on the collection by Kaisa Kahu, the brand Manager; she told me a little bit more about it and about the designer's goal for this Autumn Winter season. With the Latvian designer, pieces are always versatile and adapt to the person wearing them. In Keta Gutmane, you feel free because her garments let people express their own personalities. Of course, you can wear a total look but you can also wear these pieces separately according to your mood of the moment (Have a look at one of our latest #ootd in which Yann is wearing Keta Gutmane oversized culottes). I fell in love with a lot of the pieces displayed at the Void Showroom and especially with the oversize coat & the wide trousers; impressive statement tailored pieces that Keta with her unique vision, keeps on reinventing collection after collection. Even if Keta Gutmane doesn't design for a male audience stricto sensu, some of her pieces have this agender vibe we love so much. I had the chance to try on an oversize long coat (a coat that fitted me perfectly to be honest & completely humble...). Here, there are no boundaries between a men's wardrobe or a women's one, this is just about beautifully well-made garments with a soul. So whether you are a girl/woman or a boy/man, if you like what you see, if wearing these pieces makes you feel special, just go for them, buy them and let the magic happen!


If you need a deeper insight into the concept of Keta Gutmane, here are a few words by the designer. 
"A bridge between the interior and exterior. The atelier proposes an open dialogue. One that is democratic and carefully shaped by the contours of our creative process. The observation o four surroundings, is deduced towards a personal take on singular and versatile silhouettes. The studio's monochrome backdrop re-directs all our focus towards construction, tactility and textural research. This elaborate process enhances the profound connection between finished garment and wearer. Together they will explore new horizons. each curious piece is crafted to enhance your individuality. Philosophically understated, we embrace silent empowerment from within. Each collection shapes a window towards the world, open to all that observe before they choose to engage".

And of course, you can also visit her website & online shop.




 CREDITS
Photography: Martins Cirulis
Art Director: Marlo Saalmink
Garments: all Keta Gutmane AW16
Shoes: all The Last Conspiracy
Model: Liene Podina
MUA: Aija Udentina
All images shot on location, in Riga, Latvia.



We have already said it but we'd like to thank all the Keta Gutmane Team & especially Kaisa Kahu, the Brand Manager, for her kindness & trust.



Stay tuned for more material on Keta Gutmane as we will visit the Cube Showroom in Paris on Saturday October 1st and then, get the chance to see what she has imagined for Spring Summer 2017. It is a euphemism to say that we are excited and judging by the pictures the brand posted on its Instagram Account, it will have some insane UK Punk influences! 

We will try to keep you posted as much as possible! Follow us on Instagram here.


Words by Yann Sackville-West & Charles Margueritte