20/06/2017

#MFW #SS18 TOP 5

Between the crazy, young, effervescent London Fashion Week and the radical, edgy, electrifying Paris one, there are the Milan collections. The Milano case is a tricky one; a lot of the brands showing their collections are, let's be honest, boring, tacky (Hello Philip Plein!), repetitive (Hello Dolce & Gabbana) but fortunately, there are also exciting ones, promising ones, some giving us some chills and of course, there is Prada! Prada is fascinating and never disappoints us. You might find it quite unsurprising but yes, once again, it is our favorite collection from this Spring Summer 2018 cuvée though Marni was in pole position. 
Here are, according to us, the 5 collections to remember from this SS18 Milan Fashion Week. Enjoy!


1/ The One We'll Definitely Buy: Sunnei









Pictures by Martina Ferrara


2/ The Story: Lost & Found @Marni [read our article here]






Pictures via the Marni Facebook page



3/ The One You Should Watch: No21





Pictures via Vogue.com



4/ The Looks We Loved: MSGM and its prints on prints on prints





Pictures via Vogue.com




5/ The SS18 Collection: Prada [read our article here]





19/06/2017

COMIC STRIP


Uniform & Prada are a match made in Heaven and a story that has been going on for years now. This is a genuine obsession for Miuccia Prada, "a fixation" as she told Katie Grand in System Magazine 8 Autumn/Winter 2016. This love story is just as topical as ever in the brand new collection of the iconic Italian label presented yesterday in Milano. 

In a very "Comic Strip" atmosphere, models, looking like they were working for some aerospace company, were sporting nylon trousers buckled up on the ankle (like some neo-cyclists - an impression reinforced by some of the crazy footwear propositions), shorty shorts worn with matching jackets & graphic-printed/striped shirts and jumpsuits. Backstage, the designer told she were "crazy about jumpsuits probably because it's simple". You cannot deny this sense of "simplicity" exuding from this collection. Caution! This is a very Prada simplicity and we definitely do not have the same definition as the brand. Of course, the pieces are beautiful & bold but the styling, the general impression even the prints (mostly in black & white, hand-drawn, very graphic far less complex than those by Christophe Chemin for AW16 for instance)  convey a sense of effortlessness. We have already seen more dense, more far-fetched collection. Along with this sense of simplicity, comes utilitarian vibes in the bumbags (a fashion faux pas that seems to be more & more present on the catwalks and in the fashionistas' wardrobes), the Velcro, the zips, the socks & sandals combo (another commonly accepted fashion faux-pas) and in the fabrics too. All these elements are counterbalanced with more classical ones, more dapper, more Prada-like in a way; the coats and outerwear in general, the herringbone, the cardigans, the loafers, the boxy shirts, the stripes, this 50s impression (a time period that is very dear to Miuccia Prada) giving a more mature look at this collection. A little bit of everything for everybody actually but once again, made in a very Prada way, with a genuine thought behind it, a genuine desire to wake our wildest fashion desires up.















Pictures by Lillie Eiger for Dazed

In the previously quoted interview with Fashion guru Katie Grand, Ms Prada also said  that "you can hide beneath a uniform and you don't have to tell anyone anything about yourself". True but by wearing the Prada ones, you can't hide very long and you'll soon be acknowledged as someone who deeply & faithfully loves Fashion. This is a feeling hard to describe when we're looking at a Prada runway show or at Prada clothes in stores, this immediate sense of desirability, of fascination. An obsession. The purest & sweetest one.




18/06/2017

NATURE BOY

"There was a boy- a very strange, enchanted boy - they say he wandered very far, very far, over land and sea- a little shy and sad of eye - but very wise was he", this is how began the Marni Spring Summer 18 show presented yesterday in Milano. Originally sung by crooner Nat King Cole and covered years later by our Ultimate Idol Mr Bowie, here, their voices intertwined, Past & "Present" are meeting in a magically re-vamped remix. An enchanted and mesmerizing soundtrack aiming at one thing, putting you in the mood for Marni, a brand we have been loving for so long now. When Consuelo Castiglioni left her house a few months ago, we were kind of worried about its future. Not that we were thinking that newly appointed Francesco Risso would not be up to it but Marni was so Castiglioni and vice versa. The Autumn Winter 17/18 womenswear collection did not fully convince us but for this SS18 one we're kind of reassured. Marni is in good hands and will stick to its peculiar & beautiful aesthetics. No need to overthink it; everything was there, in the theme, a kind of trivial & innocent beauty but with a lot of charm & personality. But simple designs are often the most difficult to achieve; here it works so well, like a charm. So, look at the collection in the video below and keep in mind some lyrics from the song "the greatest thing you'll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return".






Entitled "Lost & Found, this collection is proceeding through romantic &pastoral waters. It is all about"enjoying life as an act of self discovery" as you can read on the Instagram account of the brand, finding modernity within the past or perhaps looking for something past & old-fashioned in the sometimes stifling modernity. Greatly influenced by the fifties (after all, Francesco Risso was trained at Prada, the house where 50s are King), this collection offers a wide range of somehow classical/timeless pieces with a twist; visually bold & naive prints, child graffiti, argyles, stripes. Patterns & prints are in the Marni DNA. A visual orgasm, a riots of textures, so desirable for the next Spring Summer season. Cropped trousers are counterbalancing the silhouettes, the lightweight tailoring almost makes us crave for dog days. With this collection, Risso is definitely nodding to the Marni cornerstones but at the same time, he is opening the way to something new, with the stripes, the proportions, the colors; defining an enchanted & naive beauty, a younger & cooler Marni man/boy yet still totally edgy. A man/boy wearing bathing suit jumpsuits, pastel colors, singing songs of innocence and  rushing into modernity with his colorful sneakers.
This may be a new perspective, a new design, new proportions infused with an easy to wear attitude but this is definitely Marni!