It isn't easy at all to have a strong and objective point of view. To tell what is good and what is not, what are the things you like the most...etc. We feel like it is a big deal. That's why we took our time to give you a honest and objective review of what we liked about London Fashion Week and only about collections that stood out. London Scene is the most important fashion Week for us, so it was a nightmare to choose what we were going to talk about, what collections we wanted to put forward. We were often dazed and confused, of course in a good way because we expected a lot about this scene (we've got LDN under our skin, don't forget it). NY was not boring as we said in on our radar post We were not very astonished, not very disappointed but there were no wow moments (don't worry guys, we will post a focus on Proenza Schouler and Rodarte very soon). Milan is Milan, we don't expect much, except from Prada, Marni and Jil Sander ( without these labels Milan is a desert, only if you are a woman of petite vertue).
KOKON TO ZAI was the last label scheduled on the first day of LFW and it was worth the wait. KTZ is a collaboration between Koji Maruyama, Sasko Bezovski and Marjan Pejoski. Koji is japanese and Sasko and Majan are both from Macedonia. Koji and Marjan graduated from Central Saint Martins and Sasko studied architecture. Their key idea behind this SS13 collection is probably lace that is re-designed and combined with leather and unconventionnal shiny fabrics. About their inspirations they said: "Spring/summer 2013 is inspired by the book Art Nouveau Ornaments and the film Liquid Sky from the eighties.” Their collection is sexy, irreverent, provocative and non boring at all. We love the ballerina-like look with the cropped shirt with short sleeves, the leather-like graphic belt, the shiny tutu skirt and the lace leggings with the collection pattern ornament, which is the main theme we find in one way or another on every silhouette ( jewellery, belts, masks and caps). You are Young, Rebel and Daring, obviously this collection is designed for you!
10.30 a.m, it's time for Sister by Sibling. A young and fashion-forward label composed of Sid Bryan, Joe Bates and Cozette McCreery. They embody a fashion that should not be taken seriously, that should be played with, be twisted. They want fashion to be a show, to be WOW, to be OOH LA LA because perhaps, they want people (men with SIBLING and women) to be OOH LA LA, to have fun with their clothes. In a Sister by Sibling collection, there is always absolutely fabulous knitwear (one of their trademarks) and extravagant headpieces (their pompom/masks is their other trademark) that Anna Dello Russo cannot dislike. Yes, we expect the collection to be Ooh lala for instance, with their exaggerated white fur-like coat buttoned up and the white knitted balaclava with the big pompoms on top. The must-have piece is, for sure, the desirable sequin-embroidered top with the yellow or pink S representing the Sibling logo and permitting the label to be recognizable and printed in everybody's mind.One cannot forget the two toile de jouy silhouettes for a casual look: this print is combined with a simple white pencil skirt or is everywhere on a polo dress, perfect for a sunday brunch in an English manor. "OOH LA LA, la vie est belle!"
The designing approach at Topshop for the UNIQUE fashion show is obviously not the same for the huge boutiques in the UK and now all around the world. Emma farrow, graduated in 1999 from Middlesex University with a degree in Constructed Textiles, and her design team challenged different issues for the fashion show, that did not involve marketing and commercial ways of creation. The Unique client is, by defintion, unique, she wants to stand out, to explore and after all, every woman wants to be seen and considered as unique. There is no gold/bling bling Cleopatra princess for this season, but clean and minimalist inspiration, perhaps Jil Sander right? Obviously, there is no show off silhouettes, Miss Farrow succeeded in making it modern and sexy with no cliché of beauty. We feel like White is not our favourite colour,but we are crazy about the monochrome, clean looks which are the best: Jourdan with her see through strap dress, the tailored plaid, the strap plaid on the white transparent dress, the sleeveless plaid top with the asymetrical belt skirt, the exaggerated long shirt dress and the square embroidered crystal dress. We are very fond of the navy Jil Sander part looks that they have the brillant idea of mixing with black (yes black and navy works very well together!) for instance the lazer cut navy coat worn with both black bralet and a pencil skirt. The silver part is also stunning, not giving a bling bling stereotype but a futuristic twist to this collection.There were also graphic elements on tops and dresses that remind the minimalist/ futuristic theme. At last, we must mention the biker sleeveless grey jacket and the cross paint like prints, (echoing with the F/W12 collection), pieces among many others that women surely want to have in their unique closet.
All these pictures can be found on the London Fashion Week Website.