14/09/2012

ON OUR RADAR


The NYFW opens the season SS13 of Womenswear Fashion Week around the world. Before it starts we have actually few names as always that we expect the best, the epiphany....there are so many brands in New York, showing their collections, revealing that NY has great talents and creativity for sure. Most of them giving collections that we were expecting from them, without going further, no wow moments...Perhaps it was not a good season, many labels went safe...no real explanations what's going on ? But, a few labels get on our Radar !

Marc Jacobs is still the NY King for sure and  for many years to come. Yes! It's always a Zeitgest moment! After his F/W12 Downton Abbey collection with his Edwardian girls, he carries us to the 60's, giving a sexy rock and roll collection! Yes! It's all about a cool girl with a beautiful wardrobe of striped tops, t-shits , pants and skirts for a daylook, short-polo dresses and short-polo dresses with ruffle details for a Summer look, tailleur jupe with the use of ruffles or plastron on the top for a business rendez-vous in town and evening look with long stripped sexy dresses (small and big stripes)  and shiny black and white dresses that were also sexy with lazer cut at the bottom.. Thinking of stripes to make dresses is not a easy choice to assume because at first glance you wonder if it will work. The result is stunning because it is sexy without no cliché of beauty. The proportions of the stripes are fine  and the prints are well-cratfted to flatter the body.














The body is perhaps the starting point  for Alexander Wang SS13 Collection with his futuristic amazones. Actually, everything is based upon the lazer cuts and the insane proportions of the dresses, tops, jackets and  shorts. We feel that perhaps there is also a reflection on the conception of the body like in the Marc Jacobs collection, because Alexander Wang presented the sexiest collection of NYFW without any cliché of beauty! We were so thrilled watching the show, even shacking our booty because it was a real show  (the music was so great and the final with all these sharp lazer-cut white dresses designed with technological fabrics that shone when the lights went out). Alexander Wang means modern american street-sportwear for sure, non boring at all : we can't keep our eyes off the black leather patch zip jackets with a pencil skirt that you wear with bondage high top sandals and the zip leather white crop shirt sleeves jackets worn with long minimalism white collarless shirt and a tight short for an "agressive" daylook. We can also add the monochromatic beige look with the oversized patch leather bomber jacket worn with a tight short with high lace white sandals.; the asymetrical layered white shirt and its schoking spine lazer-cut on the back: so irreverently sexy! These looks, you cannot  forget them! We can go on and on like this for hours, everything was just perfect. Alexander Wang knows what women want to wear for sure!















 Another one who knows very well what women want to wear is Phillip Lim. About is SS13 collection, he explained to Style.com that he used "the technique of cut-up, which is a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead. Write a ten-word sentence, pick out five of those words at random, and then reassemble them in an arbitrary order". You could say nonsense and how you can work like that, referring to what we said above. Actually it works and it's weirdly chic, very refreshing for Summer and it's another proposition that is soft compared to Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs and their sexy/hard themes. About the cut-up process, there is an echo with the mix of prints and fabrics to Marc by Marc Jacobs SS13. Lim uses strong prints such as checks, plaids, leopard and tropical prints. For instance, you have for a daylook the button up shirt composed of patches of acid leopard, plaid and checks prints with the white slim pants worn with a kind of neo-sandals (killer shoes), or the pastel floral perfecto worn with "I love Nueva York" t-shirt with the acid purple pants and also a plaid shirt worn on the waist for a grungy attitude reminding Kurt Cobain. If you are not a big fan of mix-match prints you can jump on the fuschia biker jacket worn with the graphic large letter t-shit and the tropical pants.This collection is absolutely modern and like the two designers above, Lim presents his own version of beauty.














All the pictures come from Style.com .

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