Fashion is a strange world for sure. The perception of time is not the same as in the world we're living in. For instance if you take what has happened to the Kenzo maison for almost one year. Before the arrival of the magicians Humberto Léon and Carol Lim , Kenzo was like the Sleeping Beauty. A sleeping house full of beauty, of history that people have tended to forget, frozen in a kind of stiff haute couture posture, but that had no connections to the streets. Kenzo by Humberto & Carol does make connections to the streets after only two seasons. Perhaps that is what fashion is all about if it makes it to the streets: you win ! Obviously, we guess that some of the "haute couture" clientes said that they didn't recognize themselves and that now it's only a question of big money! We can just answer that of course, fashion is always a question of money because clothes have to be worn and not to be in museums. Now, it is a big rendez-vous for Paris Fashion Week and we are just like the whole world for sure, as excited as a child to see the new Spring Summer collection! Last season , they obsessed us by re-lauching the iconic Tiger sweater (one of the must-haves of 2012) and by collaborating with Vans and New Era. So, this morning when we woke up, we had great expectations for this new Kenzo collection and what we can say tonight is that we are not disappointed at all!
The main theme behind this collection is the idea of travelling, a theme so dear to Kenzo Takada hence a safari or an expedition in wild. Thus, the first look directly introduces the safari theme with a simple safari grey jacket worn by Fei Fei Sun with a button up shirt, large shorts and high rain boots, the looks also put the collection back in the 70's, echoing with the creation of Kenzo jungle jap line. Safari theme is re-defined first with the use of ochre (a very natural colour reminding the Australian desert or some sandy lands in Africa) in two looks, the belted jumpsuit and the long oversized belted trench. They also play with the cliché of safari by using khaki with a military twist: the strap cut vest worn with the belted oversized parachute-like pants and the trench-like belted dress.
Then, comes the tropical floral print (that also decorated the catwalk) especially designed for this collection:a new Kenzo print we are already crazy about: the corset top with the slim pants, the military-like belted jumpsuit and the Asian-like jacket worn with loose pants. Then, they had the wonderful idea of using prints like an ornament in the lime green part: the biker-like jacket or in the bomber-like jacket (surely must-have pieces). Another brilliant idea is that they added a new texture to the tropical print by obviously giving it a 3D effect, emphasizing it and making it more graphic.
Summer is definitely a question of prints we don't mind talking in terms of big cliché! Paris fashion Week is so serious with all the big names, we don't even see many prints out there. Humberto and Carol seemed to have a lot of fun designing this collection, which is at each season a brand new adventure. In terms of exploration, they created this large leopard print in shocking colours. At first we were like oh my god Kenzo ! The starting point of the collection was interesting, but now we are deeply in the jungle with a bad 2012 Disney version of Tarzan. You know the very big cliché? But they actually play with this cliché and update it with this large prints and amazing colours: yellow and blue mix with the camel, orange with lime green, blue with orange. The iconic tiger is also printed in a camo of green and orange and it reminds us of the painting Surprise by Le Douanier Rousseau. Perhaps there is a parallel. Who knows?
Oh my god Kenzo! It was stunning and a very unique collection for next season. (We already want the Le Douanier Rousseau-like sweaters). This is the kind of collection that will certainly make it to the streets. It's not a collection for all, but actually for non-boring people who are not afraid of playing with fashion and having in their wardrobe, clothes that stand out, clothes that shout "Look at me! I am so amazing!".
All these pictures and many more can be found on the website of BRITISH VOGUE