25/11/2012

ANTI-FASHION !


Waking up at 4.30 am  and taking the first train to go to Paris has been the craziest and most eccentric thing we had to do to get pieces from Maison Martin Margiela x H&M! It was super exciting and also kind of bizarre to wait at 7.15 am in front of a store waiting for almost two and a half hours to be part of THE big shopping event of this gloomy November of 2012. The other exciting part [apart from the hot guy with moustache who gave us hot coffee & mini-croissants] has also been the meeting with the other crazy people/ freaks/ extremistas/ fashion crowd before the event. Thinking back of what happened during this day makes us realize that we and all these buyers have been part of something very big, very epic. Who could have imagined a collaboration between the tentacular H &M market and MMM! That's so insane!

Martin Margiela Jacket SS 1997
Martin Margiela Jacket SS 1998


Martin Margiela SS 1996
Coat FW 1999


In the early 90s, Margiela and other designers such as Rei Kawakubo or Helmut Lang were part of what the media called  ANTI-FASHION! They presented clothes that looked unfinished, odd, dark, too clean, echoing with what was going on at that time (end of the New Age and beginning of the grunge movement in music & fashion, the fall of the Berlin Wall, a dark era of wondering & wandering). We don't  talk about mode here,  but about styling that were completely the opposite of the 80's Ooh La La era with Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier or Claude Montana. So back in the early nineties one wouldn't have believed us if we had told them that Margiela would work for H & M. We can imagine people saying that Margiela had sold his soul to the Devil! At first, one could believe that ANTI FASHION would perish and disappear, but that's obviously the opposite that has happened. Yesterday, it was Comme Des Garçons X H&M so it seems quite ordinary (but yet unreal) to have now MMM X H&M. Tomorow, perhaps it will be Yamamoto or Raf Simons or maybe Dries Van Noten! Global Fashion is like an animal trapped in a disturbing place, at the end of the day,  the animal always finds a way to adapt and make this disturbing place its own.



Yohji Yamamoto Skirt FW 1991
Yohji Yamamoto Suits FW 1986


Comme des Garçons Dress SS 1983
Comme des Garçons Dress SS 1999


Today it seems so dated to talk about ANTI-FASHION  because it is something belonging to the nineties. Strangely enough these ANTI-FASHION designers have built  succesful empires such as Kawakubo with CDG and CDG Homme Plus for the main lines but also CDG wallets, CDG perfumes, CDG Play, CDG Shirt, CDG by CDG....There's no judgemental statement here but only the acknowledgement that even the less attractive style can become fashion , à la mode or even MAINSTREAM.


Prada SS 2011
Prada SS 2011


Prada SS 2011
Prada SS 2011

So, while 2013 is the next step (if we are lucky enough to get through December 21st) what remains of ANTI-FASHION in the next Spring/Summer collections? One told me one day the weirdest your collection is the most commercial your collection will be! So bear this concept in mind and think about Prada SS13 and its Exoticism meets Harajuku collection. Even Miuccia herself agrees with this statement and told once:" One of my most playful, over-the-top-collection was my spring 2011 collection....Many of the women carried brightly striped stoles...Others wore gigantic sombreros tied around their necks...It was one of the most commercially successful collections, which came as a surprise to me. I never thought people would want to wear clothes with monkeys and bananas on them".


Prada SS 2013
Prada SS 2013
Prada SS 2013
Prada SS 2013

Yes, there's always a step further with Ms Prada. This time her attention was drawn to Japan. Miuccia Prada's working procces is always to  take something from one cultural cliché and transform it, to make it her own. Geishas, satin and fur were her starting point challenge this time, creating a kind of new vintage sexy geishas for next season. Dear Miuccia, we have absolutely no doubt that your geisha platforms and asymetrical satin skirts will become must-haves just like the creepers-espadrilles that you still continue to product! At first glimpse, we just thought this idea of  neo-platform shoes  pushed the envelope a little bit too far, it was kind of shocking in a way (how can you possibly wear that?). Yet, that makes sense somewhere and, actually, that's the kind of idea that is brilliant and completely avant-garde. That's the kind of ideas that we love so much and don't want to tell (we can already hear are you crazy guys ?) We are crazy just like you! Don't be afraid, it will be OK! This look will be analyzed and  translated for the big global markets like Zara or H&M ! Don't be afraid of ANTI FASHION because it means absolutely nothing today .



Apart from the last 4 pictures (coming from Style.com) all the other pictures can be found in FASHION published by Taschen.



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