04/11/2012

ESSENTIAL READINGS 3



"In reading, a lonely quiet concert is given to our minds; all our mental faculties will be  present in this symphonic exaltation"                                          
                                                                                                                     
 Stéphane Mallarmé


Here is the time for a brand new review of what we consider as three worth-reading magazines talking about Men's Fashion in a rather mental way. It's November, it's cold outside (for those of the nothern hemisphere of course! But don't boast too much fellow readers of the Southern countries, your time will come!), wrap yourselves in a blanket, take a good cup of hot tea/chocolate/coffee (what else?), light a flamboyant fire (what?! You do not have a fireplace??) and take one of these magazines (even the three if you feel self-confident).

On our coffee table, this month, We have Another ManHERO and Vogue Hommes Japan.



Another Man, the magazine of Jefferson Hack and such great contributors as Alistair Mackie and Tim Blanks, has always an intellectual and deep approach of what is Men's fashion nowadays and is not afraid of approaching it in a real and non-glamorous way. After all, fashion is not always about glamour (this word is so over-used these days!), it is about real men with normal bodies, particular faces and intense personalities. That's why it is called Another Man! Another Man different from all these clichés of Manhood we are confronted with all day long in the media. First hint of this editorial choice, the cover. This time, Willem Dafoe, the actual face of Prada and possessed actor of such movies as the Last Temptation of the Christ, Life Aquatic or Antichrist. In a dialogue with the conceptual artist Marina Abramovic, he gives his vision of art, of performance and we learn that he does not consider himself as an actor (but more as a dancer or as a doer) because the places [he is] most interested in [...] don't have anything to do with what we know traditionally as acting". This issue of Another Man clearly deals with manhood in a romantic way (this issue is subtitled A new romance). It is about a Man of Power, a classical man in a way, a man wearing suits, a man owning a castle. Just like Crispin Glover, another actor/artist with a craggy face we have seen so many times in movies!

 

We love the shootings in Another man because they are not so many and each time, they are really reflecting a great need for strictness and quality. This issue is no exception and for example, the 28-page shooting by Alasdair McLellan entitled My Back Pages is extremely beautiful and meaningful. We are under the impression that this was inspired by a XX song. there is a certain joy in despair, a certain sun in the grey sky... Really powerful. It is pretty hard to put words on the emotion triggered by these pictures.


Vogue Hommes Japan, our second choice, is more a kind of luxury because (and unfortunately) we can't speak Japanese! So apart from the pleasure of seeing these beautiful characters, it is only an occasion of looking at gorgeous pictures coming from the mind of the talented and spirited Nicolas Formichetti. Everything is perfect in this magazine, from the Hommestagram pages to the choice of clothes and accessories. And there is such a concentration of talents! It's insane! Everybody wants to work for this magazine (we are tempted to say piece of art instead of magazine). Here is an example, for the shooting called BLEACHED, the styling is by Mr Formichetti himself, the pics by Hedi Slimane and the artwork by GRIMES! And the model Gryphon O'Shea (also on the cover) is gorgeous and rather HOT! Which magazine could fight such a team?


What we also loved when "reading" this issue entitled Digital Manifesto is their selection of bloggers in the article D.I.Y. Style. Of course, we would have loved to read their answers about how they create their own styles but thanks to Vogue Hommes Japan we discovered some very interesting profiles and maybe one day, we will be in these pages (is it too wishful thinking?).


HERO, the last magazine in our selection, focuses on a "Volatile Opulence" this time. As Fabien Kruszelnicki and James West write in their edito, this season "it's time to do whatever you want, time to mix things you shouldn't, time to reject the boring and embrace the 'really?' ". As W.A.R.M. repeats article after article, it's time to brandish your OWN idea of fashion, to forget about conventions, clichés, to become who you want and to shout F*** to the face of the world. Life is way too short to lose time in trying to be someone you're not, to play a role to satisfy people. Don't you agree? This edito is definitely our Manifesto for this season (and maybe for our whole life as bloggers). 



So what can be found in this issue? Many, many things starting with a nice display of the SS13 Men's collections with all the key pieces from all the key brands (Kenzo, Givenchy, Burberry, Dior Homme and so many more...), a great prortrait of a London-based brand we really like Sibling, interesting interviews of young American actors and of Lucas Ossendrijver where the designer of Lanvin for Men says something so true when he answers the following question "Where have you been that you never want to go back to?" by saying "Teenage insecurity". Just perfect! And of course, many really nice shootings (one even styled by Nicola Formichetti who seems to be ubiquitous) by such talented photographers as Thomas Lohr, Christian Ferretti or Fabien Kruszelnicki.





"Luckily enough", these three magazines come out only twice a year because, they are so dense, so rich, it is a long process to "travel through" them from the very first page to the very last one. 





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