03/12/2012

THE SEASON OF THE WITCH


We cannot deny it, these times, we are getting more and more mystical. Not Us particularly but everybody. Can you feel it? Is it the world coming to an end (or to tell it in a more positive way, starting a new cycle)? Is it our need for answers that cannot be satisfied? Or just a way to stand out, to appear dangerous and/or mysterious? A clever mix of these three possibilities we would say. Mysticism and supernature to a larger extent is the best way to go through these unsafe days where nothing can really be taken for granted, where everything can happen.

It is not a huge truth we are telling you but just like us, you surely have noticed that supernatural creatures have been fashionable for some years now. And among all the vampires, werewolfes (or sometimes even both at the same time) invading our screens and books, witches seem to be the most real characters, the closest to us. They are women on the fringe of society because dangerous and unpredictable. And after all, isn't it the secret desire of every woman? To be dangerous and unpredictable? A threat for men? An enigma for them? It is so boring to feel like an open book!



Julia Nobis wearing Saint Laurent Paris SS13 for Numéro Dec 12/ Jan 13

This need for mystery and shadows, the world of fashion has understood it for a few seasons now. Remember what Alexander McQueen did for his AW 2007 collection entitled In memory of Elizabeth Howe, Salem 1692 and inspired by the famous witches who were hung after a stormy trial. The models were walking on a  black and embellished catwalk with a blood red crystal pentagram. Freaky!




Even in the pages of the September Issue of Vogue Paris in 2008, a whole series of pictures by Terry Richardson presented an esoteric Lily Donaldson (Lily where are you? It's been a while since we heard from you!) who had strange stars painted on the forehead and who seemed to be fond of a strange goat (Be careful little goat! We can smell a sacrifice coming!).







But now we feel the season of the witch is really coming and this is the prophet of Fashion who told us! HEDI SLIMANE! In his first show for Saint Laurent Paris in October 2012, he transcended the YSL woman by turning her into an adept of witchcraft, a woman whose face cannot be seen because of her large hat. She is only but a face made of shadows and a floating body wearing a cape (the garment you have to wear to be a perfect witch), light and translucent clothes where you can easily hide a wand or a phial full of a dangerous nectar. Here, we are obviously far from the Hocus Pocus imagery (even if the icon of style Sarah Jessica Parker was one of these adepts of potions and evil tricks). The Saint Laurent woman is so elegant, so stylish, so mesmerizing. She is not afraid of wearing lace and leather because she loves to feel sexy and seductive. We are talking about the sexy Witch not the Bitch Witch here! The fire warming her cauldron up is also burning inside of her. She wears charms and necklaces maybe some possessed talismans and is always in black. When she dares to have colourful clothes, she chooses red, the colour of flesh and blood. Slimane's witches have clearly succeeded in seducing us even if at first sight, we were not particularly charmed. Have we been bewitched? Perhaps. 













While talking about her SS13 collection, Ann Demeulemeester said that "beauty can be frightening".What sums up best a witch than this sentence? We cannot see. Any ideas?








 And fashion is not the only playing field for witches nowadays. Music also appears to be a place where they can experiment and perform their spellbinding songs and incantations. GRIMES and AZEALIA BANKS seem to be the perfect examples. They love painting symbols on their faces and make it a point of honour to do what they want (and only what they want!) even if they can appear insane, enigmatic or misunderstood. And both, with their very different styles, set the tone for a new way of making music and videos.







GRIMES -Vanessa- 2011

Last but not least,  Phoebe Philo, the Céline designer, cannot deny she was directly inspired by the super-edgy style of Miss Tick, the witch in Donald Duck's stories when she designed her SS13 furry stilettos. Don't you agree with us?





All the pictures of the runway shows (looks and details) can be found on STYLE.COM

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