25/03/2013

PRETTY IN BLACK


Ok, wearing Black is the most perfect colour to be elegant, the perfect colour for bourgeois who want to remain classy and discrete (in the meaning of...) in every circumstance. But according to them, black is for Winter. We, at W.A.R.M., are refusing, even rejecting this cliché, this ideal of beauty. We want to go beyond it and want to restore black as a colour. A full-time colour. The favourite colour of Yves Saint Laurent. Black as the colour of the most prolific collections of Cristobal Balenciaga (now reprised by Alexander Wang for his first collection for this legendary maison de couture). Black like in Pretty in Black, the Raveonettes' album out in 2005, a return to the L.A. Rock of the 50s and 60s. Black used by Comme des Garçons, a basic since 1981 and the very first collection in Paris called Hiroshima Chic. As Rei Kawakubo said in 1992:"I've always felt very comfortable with the colour Black. I don't know why. But my feeling for black is stronger than ever these last ten years."


For the SS13 collection of ALTEWAISAOME (for Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome), black is a colour à part entière, just a colour to express their visions of Neo-Futurism, of a modern era featuring architectural pieces. With this collection, presented at the Stockolm Fashion Week, they paid a kind of homage to Balenciaga (who was already very modern in the 60s) with the cocoon pieces in a monochromous palette. Thanks to these new Swedish young designers, we are witnessing the renaissance of the Scandinavian fashion whose way was opened by ACNE and his creator Jonny Johansson. We all agree that Black can be boring (who has not already said that Scandinavian Minimalism is tiring?) but when you see the work of these designers, you can only applaude and say MORE! Moreover, Black can be so useful to accentuate and even, emplasize the other colours on the clothes. 











People wearing ALTEWAISAOME have a strong and confident attitude thanks to the use of black, that can be so basic but also so meaningful. Designers create style not fashion. Fashion is everything around this style. By creating style, they create an attitude. With their SS13 collections, the duo of PROUDRACE created a High-end Streetwear attitude but black is reinterpretated in a cooler, fresher, lighter, younger way reminding us of the Good Old Nineties. The designers took as a basis for their collection called 1990Nile all the usual clothes of College Boys and Girls (varsity jackets, Football tanks, sweaters but each with a twist) which they reinterpretated in a very comtemporary (these clothes are unisex) yet vintage way by using hieroglyph prints. All these pieces show that the designers of PROUDRACE are in a way nostalgic of this period and we feel this "emotion" contrary to some other brands (we have in mind some awful brands AB********* & F**** or HOL****** selling us something so cliché, that never existed and will never do) whereas with PROUDRACE this feeling is real and human. All their clothes are really desirable, wearable, effortlessly cool and irreverent. Everything we LOVE and CRAVE for.




Another brand we wanted to write about in this article is AVA CATHERSIDE, whom we came accross while looking for inspiration on LN-CC (one of the best retail stores ever!). Black is translated in unisex, comfortable pieces with the most exquisite fabrics (wool, jersey, cotton). Obviously black is an understatement here, there are no extravagant outfits but only clean shapes focusing on details and craftsmanship. Collection after collection, she has succeeded in expressing her own vision of Fashion thanks to the mastering of black and this is what makes her a genuine fashion designer insamuch as not only she makes perfectly tailored pieces (it seems as the basis to us) but each new season she gives her own interpretation of a black shirt, a black dress, a black sweater... something that looks the simplest thing on earth but that is everything but simple when it comes to Ava Catherside's work. 









The point of this article was to show that this is not enough to wear Black to be Fashion. To get a unique look, you have to choose the right designers, the right shapes and above all, you have to decide by yourself when you want to wear black. Stop listening to the bourgeoisie who says Black is for cold and sad days. Wear black when you want to. Wear black to be extravagant (Rick Owens) or classical (Chanel) or sexy (Balmain) or natural (like Grace Coddington). The only question is what YOU want to wear, when YOU want to wear it and why YOU want to wear it! So let's get pretty in black this Summer!


The ALTEWAISAOME collection can be found on B56 among others.
The PROUDRACE collection can be found on Exceptional New Design among others.
The AVA CATHERSIDE collection can be found on LN-CC among others.


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