"Aucune envie de normalité" [everything but normality] says Karl Lagerfeld in the latest documentary of Loïc Prigent. That's the starting point of this post. That a kind of irreverence. Karl Lagerfeld always rejects and despises above all the idea of bourgeoisie. One could say that is very awkward for someone who is working for the poshest house of fashion. But Karl Lagerfeld is a man of contradictions so there's no real surprise about his rejection of what you have to do. Irreverence is definitely an attitude that Vivienne Westwood explores during the 70's with Malcom McLaren by creating the outfits for the Sex Pistols. You've got be confident and fearless to wear a t-shirt where it is printed in large letters "I love crap"! Vivienne Westwood naturally embodies this idea and she's the most-loved person (maybe after the Queen) in the UK, the anti-Margaret Thatcher in a certain way. That's a radical illustration and a non-conformist idea of irreverence but that is the symbol of what happened at this period in the UK. Most of the young people embraced this attitude perhaps to survive. Somehow for the greater good this idea has remained and lasted because great ideas always survive while great tyrants end up dying alone.
Shaun Samson a London based designer graduated from Central Saint Martins obviously took for his SS13 collection inspiration on the American street culture that has this sense of irreverence and also smells like teen spirit. The collection is articulated around the perfect wardrobe of a lazy teenage boy/girl, expressing a non-conformist attitude that we love so much ( white socks and flip flops give the impression of a pyjamas party way of living, perhaps these teens choose are looking for comfort above all things no matter how they look like). Samson got the oversized tee in his DNA ( it's his signature piece) that he designs in printed goth cats with studs and plaids styled with large shorts (plaids, checks and stripes). The other part of the collection is introduced with the pale orange mixed with pale blue ( the striped shirt ), navy blue and grey also embellished with shiny metallic fabrics. No wonder that a lot of boys (and even girls) desire Samson's unique aesthetics: "some loitering boys on the street looking cool".
After discovering last Summer what Rei Kawakubo made for her Homme Plus line, we directly got the "I dont give a fuckin' damn" attitude. Most of her dangerous ginger mono-eyebrowed boys crowned with leather stud cap ( a collaboration with Fleet Ilya) were wearing long Edwardian look coats as if they were going to a pyjamas party/ball. The coats are the key pieces in this collection (even if the clothes underneath look fantastic), they are in grey, white, striped navy blue and black; one button coats, double breasted, neo biker jacket look coats, neo duffle look coats and stand-up collar coats. Obviously the intention is to deconstruct and re-create a new shape of coats that is one among all Kawakubo's obsessions. There is also the would be random styling: the camo uniform with the grey coats, the clownish beige coats with black and white stripes pyjamas and the shiny golden metallic effect combi (shirt and pants). Polka dots are Kawakubo's gimmicks ( here, they are only on the printed socks and brogues) but this time we find again the beautiful plaid in all over oufits in red, green and blue and red and green. Kawakubo only said two words to sum up what theme lies beneath this collection: "Poor King". It's the definition of less is more: minimalism in the words and maximalism in the clothes. No need for further interpretation, the clothes are beautiful and cool so What the Fuck?
All the pictures come from Dazed Digital and Fashion 156.