17/06/2013

LACE IS MORE




DAY TWO of London Collections Men and it starts with a Bang! JW ANDERSON. With his first collections, we were under the impression that there was a kind of restriction, something that he did not want to unleash but now, he is completely free and it is so obvious in this new collection. He proposes clean silhouettes where the skin is very exposed, a very modern masculine wardrobe where women can find many pieces to wear (or maybe all the pieces...). Here, we are far from his past collection, far from the pleats, the skirts and ruffles, far from the strong pieces and the bold assertions. Here, there are no strong pieces, just clinical outfits aiming at an extreme simplification of a man's wardrobe. Top (sometimes crop tops or kimonos) + bottom in white or black (with some touches of colours here and there) and some pieces added to subvert these surgical silhouettes. The tops are very tailored, very fit, you definitely have to feel very self-confident to wear them and the pants are high-waisted baggies to create a cool and elongated style.








As we have said, with this SS14 collection, JW Anderson introduces some colours (red and yellow) in blouses that seem to come out directly from a woman's wardrobe. Here, there are no innuendos but with the print, the shape of these blouses and the fabric (is it silk? is it hybrid?) we fall into something too feminine and too obvious. Are men really ready to wear that? 




In the same way, are men ready to wear lace? Ok, lace has been used for a very long time on runways with designers like Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons or Jean Paul Gaultier and last season, there were already lace and sheer fabrics. Here, JW Anderson offers a new reinterpretation of his transparent tops. After all, the goal of a designer is to create a silhouette and season after season, to reinvent, to redefine it. Men wearing lace is not only JW Anderson's obsession, BOBBY ABLEY and ASTRID ANDERSEN also introduces it on the runway. For them, it becomes a trivial fabric for menswear. In general, a man's wardrobe is boring. Let's analyze it for a moment: a jacket + a shirt + pants. We are not sure that every man wants to dress like that, that every man wants to confrom to this kind of ideal of masculinity. An ideal spread by most Hollywood actors who dressed in an über-conventional way. If men like David Beckham or Ryan Gosling dared to dress in a more creative way, men would adopt and accept their looks as the new style. In the same way as Rihanna has updated and taken a woman's wardrobe to another level. In Abley's and Andersen's collections, lace is used to show that it can be worn by everybody, you don't need to be a K-Pop singer to adopt this look, either you are a bad boy (at Astrid Andersen) or a Prince Charming (at Bobby Abley). For the moment, for everybody, lace is still something unconceivable but the day will come when fast retailers will translate this trend, this style in something wearable and conceivable, an edgy look that will make us all yearn for it. But  we remain lucid this time won't come soon because fast retailers won't bet on such an avant-garde look.



ASTRID ANDERSEN

ASTRID ANDERSEN

ASTRID ANDERSEN

ASTRID ANDERSEN

BOBBY ABLEY

BOBBY ABLEY

As you can see, there is still a lot to be done to  instil this feminine part into a man's wardrobe and make it commonly accepted by everyone. It is so hard to make minds and habits evolve and this is true for everything in today's society. People are so anchored in what they think is good or true or acceptable (Look what happened in France with the debate on gay marriage! People have been so enraged!). For the moment and as JW Anderson used to say: "men wants to have sex with women wearing JW Anderson but women doesn't want to have sex with men wearing JW Anderson". So let's hope this time will come one day. In fashion, you have to keep the faith and persevere to change opinions.


The first picture can be found on Fashion156
The other pictures come from Style.com


Aucun commentaire:

Enregistrer un commentaire