16/06/2013

LONDON COLLECTIONS:MEN, A PROMISING START


DAY ONE of London Collections: Men has been a promising start. We expect every season that London boys are going to move, surprise and disturb us. We had great expectations, considering the crowded schedule today. Such an exciting day and so many shows we really wanted to see! And even if we were not there (one day! one day! it will happen), we have been real geeks all day long waiting for the pics on Instagram, tweeting our feelings and reviews and commenting on what worked and what didn't, or what gave us a feeling of déjà vu.

The London fashion scene is a real nest for young and so many talented designers and this season, they have been the sensation of this Day One! They were expected just like any other big and established designers. They always present memorable collections and don't have to feel ashamed in front of their famous counterparts.
KAY KWOK is one of these young designers and contributed to the memorable character of this day. The precision of the cuts on his tailored pieces brings menswear something new, quite astonishing for a newly graduate of LCM.



The last collection of TOPMAN DESIGN with its Techno Cowboys had in mind to rejuvenate the archetype of this American heroic face, this myth, this symbol of masculinity. We were not really convinced by this collection. There were few ideas or even one idea, repeated again and again. Silk and embroideries! Ok, these shirts were embroidered, the shoes were metallic, the pants were loose but it was not enough and often, had something kitsch far from the subject of this collection.


Nevertheless, this disappointment did not last long considering the juicy schedule of the MAN Initiative set by Topman and FASHION EAST. As usual, the show ran fashionably late so grew our excitement. The atmosphere was tense, twits about this delay were numerous. Come on! Bring it on!
BOBBY ABLEY proposed with his SS14 Collection a dreamy somehow cartoonish storytelling of a Prince Charming. There were funny prints, sporty outfits with lilies and birds that seem to be out of Snow White.



ALAN TAYLOR presented a breathtaking collection. He definitely owns the cut! His signature is clearly identifiable, his name made it to the streets and his designs are clearly recognizable.



We have already written about CRAIG GREEN when we talked about the Aaargh exhibition: Monstres de Mode. Each and every collection of this designer is a reflection on shapes, designs and always offer men a very personal and unique wardrobe. Some models were holding structures hiding their faces (his signature). Each silhouette had one colour or one print here a spectacular and beautifully executed tie and dye.



ASTRID ANDERSEN doesn't choose her models by accident. Always bad muscular boys who can wear her collection because it is always about boys who are fond of street culture and who doesn't have any inhibitions! Indeed, in this collection where lace meets high-end sportswear, she cleraly speaks to a man who is not afraid to mix things and to accept his feminine part.



This perfect day is ending with our favourite duet of the moment: AGI AND SAM who have enough humour and introspection to offer us a collection which is like a new start. It is no longer a tale about prints (digital prints are their signature). We are surprised by their bold colours (their light turquoise and strong orange) and the introduction of black, quite disturbing. It is in a way a very graphic and tailored collection with these trompe l'oeil, round-sleeved tee-shirts.






The last 4 pictures come from NOWFASHION, all the others are from FASHION156.


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