Ideas are literally flourishing in Raf Simons's mind like blooming flowers at Spring, spreading this season in all the collections he is in charge of! Blossoming nature at Dior is not very surprising, Simons wants to start from scratch, returning to the basic code of the luxury house with the former historic designer's love for flowers. The atmosphere of his debut couture collection was hysteric (everybody was there), tense but the air was full of exquisite perfumes due to the hedge of roses. The second couture collection took place in another magical garden like an English garden can be or perhaps in Versailles. The Dior Cruise collection that took place two weeks ago in Monaco was a complete wardrobe for Spring in Winter with bold colours, with asymetrical floating dresses like flowers kissing by Summer breeze. Simons said it was all about romance and the dresses in a way reminded him of the shape of a flower, again.
Flowers are growing differently in his eponymous label, becoming a maximal prints on a coat or on the back of a coat and minimal on a shirt collar. We were not sure of liberty at first, but Simons's boys will be boys and they are androgynously sexy and cooler than ever! Menswear doesn't really have a long history, so there are so many things to be done without boys being girly! Simons's boys look like a neo Kurt Cobain just like in the good old nineties.
Raf Simons exclusive collaboration for Mr Porter is another interpretation of his romantic-grunge creative state of mind. It is also a step forward, disturbing the boring classical menswear wardrobe which has to be deeply re-invented. Menswear establishment codes dating back to the Edwardian Years have to be shaken up. It is definitely a groundbreaking collection for boys with no inhibitions. Flowers are to be taken seriously, coming to blossom in all these utilitarian pieces: bomber jacket, shirt, t-shirt, shorts and even in his signature: the sneakers!
These pictures come from Dazeddigital, Style.com and I-D magazine.