Is it always a question of control or perhaps too much control for the queen of extreme clinical sharp shape? Jil Sander has given a standout collection (unlike poor and repetitive Versace and Dolce and Gabbana), without any revolutionary design, but well-managed ideas that have reached their goals: a balance wardrobe. There's no place for random and unfinished ideas, everything is at its right place. A-line loose coats, two and three button jackets, oversized buttoned up shirts, all the proportions are well adjusted, well-cut: everything looks perfect. It is almost frightening. After years of retirement, Sander has never lost her design. Wondering if she really dropped designing during this short break. After all these years, her return at the head of her self-titled label has been like riding a bike again.
Sander's long oversized shorts are not quite like she did last season. It has got this womanly shape, trompe l'oeil effect, looking like a skirt. All the pants and "skorts" (shorts+ skirt) have got this large cuff, probably the new length for next summer that we have already followed. People always think it is silly to fold-back lapel up , we don't! Good proportions are the right attitudes! Pink orange like Katie Eary "Flamingo Massacres" is the new orange, definitely a key colour that you have to get for the next two seasons ( remember the beautiful tangerine at Topman Design AW13-14).
Sander's deep navy blue is almost missing, only present on two jackets: a blazer and a a-line coat. Marianne Faithfull on the soundtrack, it's the beginning of the Ballad of Lucy jordan. So the 80's are back again and the two jackets are fulled of this spirit. It's not navy blue but shiny leather navy blue. There is another level of sophistication as the leather has been updated, not raw fabric anymore. It is not so perfect, not so clean like the abstract monochromatic print at the end. The print looks chaotic, so we have been wondering if there is a kind of "let's go" in the collection. An enthusiasm which is part of 80's cliché, here it is kept. It's not boring minimalism, nor bling-bling, but it's all about good taste. Is it too much control or too much perfection ?
All the pictures come from DazedDigital and I-D Magazine.