28/07/2013

SKATER GIRLS AND THE CITY


Nirvana and Stella McCartney do not have anything in common, the grungy white trash boys and the hyper femininity luxury brand, it is awkward to draw a comparison or a link between these two. But after seeing Stella McCartney fall 2013 campaign, everything was clear! There is no doubt that the inspiration from this campaign comes from Nirvana cover album Nevermind. Strangely enough the whole collection is about boys meet girls skater Girls and the City, in another word it is Stella's new tribulations around what she has been doing since her first collection, designing a modern hyper feminine wardrobe based somehow on pieces coming from menswear. Of course Nirvana is not straightforwardly mentioned in a sense that the references are not litterally made (the show soundtrack was Disclosure feat. Aluna George White Noise and it was not in a skate park). Nirvana spirit is definitely there: androgyny, grungy skater and rebel attitude and the beautiful tartan. Suvi Koponen and Chiharu Okunugi look androgynous and fierce in their cocoon coat in the swimming pool. Is it clear now?





McCartney is a womenswear label but we are pretty sure that there are men buying her clothes. A masculine attitude is one of McCartney's signature, but it is all about women. It is masculine shape or style for women who stay at the end with a androgynous touch. The italian stripe is re-invented in its basis dark grey colour with asymetrical suit, slim pants, a breasted suit with a long skater skirt. The comparison with a basic italian stripe suit is transformed in a lovely bustier dress, a long-sleeved collar dress and ends up in the more abstract version: a sportswear suit composed of a sleeveless basque top and loose pants.







Sportwear is another McCartney's gimmick, but here, it is high-end streetwear and it is all about effortless chic made of comforable fabrics such as wool and cashmere. The stripe on the navy blue coat is no longer so italian like the long navy blue sweater matched with the long dark grey skater skirt. The long skater skirt is not easy to wear at all, actually is it a dangerous length for sure and we love this idea of the neo half-slip. The most brilliant ideas are also the simpliest like the loose  roll-neck navy sweater and the short skater skirt. It is highly edgy, young, cool and women  can easily wear it.
Sportwear takes a upper way of sophistication when you look at the long polo dress made of wool/cashmere and lace. All the looks embody this ideas of rawness and luxury, like layering a bolero above a roll-neck sweater dress which ends up like lace dress with asymetrical ruffles, definitely this idea of hard and soft, of masculine and feminine or of luxury and sportwear.






It is a well-balanced collection for women who like to be dressed like men but who stay true to their femininity. In a way, this collection is around the cliché of beauty like designing desirable dress such as this idea of a bustier dress which obviously screams "hyper hyper femininity". Here, we are not talking about the classic bustier dress which is a cliché of beauty. McCartney deconstructs and re-creates new bustier like the suit tweed dress and the silk draped see-through dresses. When it comes to colour, McCartney focuses on powerful bold colour like this gorgeous purple, a very YSL colour. It is very refreshing for winter, cloaking yourself in this fabulous oversized cocoon coat, definitely a must-have! Not so classic like this loose grungy tartan coat that you unconventionally wear like a dress. It is both classic and fashion forward like the silk/satin cream skater print dress and the sleeveless basque top and its matching pants.







All the pictures come from DazedDigital and Stella McCartney's website.


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