Strong women, women of power have always been at the core of Miuccia Prada's work. She has always loved to feature women who are not afraid of anything. Not afraid of wearing impossile shoes, fur in Summer, ugly chic garments, naive-printed tops and skirts, über-embroidered coats and so on and so forth. And for her Spring Summer 2014 collection, Ms Prada did not depart from her favourite theme by offering her vision of women you really don't want to mess with.
Never looking back, never looking to what others would do or never going where people think you're going seem to be Miuccia Prada's mottos and while for her resort collection (as part of the men's collection), she designed a rather dark collection (even if there were tropical prints), for next Spring she imagined a colourful, fun, extremely accessorized and styled collection, an ode to women, to their strength, to their beauty, to their boldness. For a woman who once said "I'm trying to make men more sensitive and women stronger" it seems quite natural, doesn't it?
As we have already said, women are at the center of this collection. Women are everywhere, on the walls and even on the clothes! Femininity is everywhere with clothes suggesting a certain idea of beauty and certainly not, the commonly accepted cliché conveyed by so many designers! For Miuccia, this idea is boring so she always goes further by as she said "always researching new ideas on beauty and femininity and the way it is perceived in contemporary culture". Her girls dare to say what they have to say by wearing clothes made for at the same time to be beautiful and sexy but also and it's the point here, made to be modern days warriors! To be sexy and feel beautiful, the designer proposes multiple and gorgeous embroidered dresses that only show the skin we need to see. Here a clivage, there a navel. Most of them are strapless and show the lines of shoulders. Sometimes, to suggest even louder this hyper femininity, this infinite power of women, embroidered bras are displayed over the dresses or coats.
Embroideries are everywhere in this collection and it's one of Miuccia's trademark and after all, aren't diamonds a girl's best friend? They are on the clothes, on the accessories (bags, bracelets and tube socks) and on the shoes, which are, as often in Prada collections, one of the focal points, one of the things where all the attention is centered. Here, the shoes have a particular sportswear touch with rubber heels or soles and sometimes, high heels have ribbed rubber parts on the front. The sportswear inspiration is made even more obvious with these neo platform sole rubber sandals reminding us of these strange shoes sportsmen wear before coming on the field. And the presence of the ribbed tube socks with multi-coloured stripes just emphasize this impression of a very sporty chic girl ready to struggle with the urban jungle. And please, don't mess with her!
These multi-coloured stripes can also be found in some of the garments and combined with the hyper-feminine dresses, they convey an impression of a newgen sportswear that buries deep all the New York designers that made "sportswear chic" their speciality. Here, it is a sleeveless ribbed sweater, the bottom of a skirt, just a collar or a bra top. Small pieces of clothes for a very powerful styling. But styling doesn't stop with this mix n'match of materials and styles. In this collection, Miuccia Prada proposes once again (after her SS13 Japan inspired collection) fur for Summer not only on coats but also on skirts worn over knee-high dresses. This fur is often in bright and pop colours with rainbows, tropical prints (a reminder of the Resort collection) or with faces of women. It's fun but at the same time, very expensive. The Prada Lady is powerful but knows how to have fun! And it is also obvious if we consider the soundtrack of the show, clever mix of M.I.A, Britney Spears and Bow Wow Wow's I want Candy.
One day, Miuccia Prada said about Feminism: "Enough of sweetness, women need to get out there and fight again" and we guess this SS14 collection is the perfect collection for this. Of course, her girls are wearing dresses that look like jewels (almost works of art). Of course, they are wearing furs and embellishments. Of course, they are holding small, little, colourful, feminine bags. But this collection is about something beyond this mere representation of a frozen beauty, it is about energetic women who, day after day, dare to assert what they are inside and are not afraid to get banged up and above all, who are not afraid to strike back.
With this collection, Miuccia Prada offers a pure (and almost moving) celebration of femininity with these magnificent faces of anonymous women reminding us of the work of a Frida Kahlo. An explosion of colours, of textures, an exacerbated maximalism proposing a brand new vision of what should / could be worn in Summer. This is her own vision of beauty but we are sure that sooner or later, it will be commonly accepted. One thing is certain, we cannot wait for this collection to be featured on the covers or editorials of our favourite magazines!
All these pictures can be found on Style.com