02/10/2013

THE LAST GOODBYE

This morning, it was Marc Jacobs X Louis Vuitton last collection, putting an end to sixteen years of collaboration. It was also Marc Jacobs's last goodbye to Paris Fashion Week and the theme for SS14 in a way was about it. The set was a kind of summary of all the emblematic runway sets (AW13 hotel corridor, SS13 Buren columns, AW12 railway station, SS12 carrousel, AW11 lifts and AW10 fountain), all in black for the metaphoric allusion to the past still haunting the present forever. Actually, Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton were not looking behind, but to the future and it has to be a way to go futher without forgetting. This collection was both a tribute and also a journey to the past and the future. Louis Vuitton is all about people travelling around the world and Jacobs has contributed to create season after season canonical collections that were each time travelling experiences.


About this collection, Marc Jacobs simply said "to the showgirls in all of us". Definitely a show to remember because it has shaken something deep inside us that is difficult to describe just like Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, Saint Laurent Paris and Alexander McQueen and, probably Miu Miu in a few minutes. Life is too short to be boring and that is perhaps what Jacobs wanted to showcase, an eccentric opulent performance. His language is the language of a showman. There is no other way to deliver Louis Vuitton collection without being an over the top demonstration. Vuitton is the fuel of LVMH, so the show has to be a horn of plenty. 





As the starting point of this SS14 collection there is a journey referring to Jacobs's collection, it has to begin with best-selling signature pieces such as the monogram deconstruction by Stephen Sprouse created in collaboration with LV: Edie Campbell appearing almost naked in a sheer embroidered jumpsuit holding a beaded chain, wearing a peacock feathered headpiece. Jacobs imagined the Vuitton woman as some birdly creature of the night, irreverently sexy, only wearing black to go outside in the darkest night. Sprouse trashy monogram signatures have also to be found on tights that are absolutely spectacular.




The attitude is obviously in some parts of the collection very grungy when you take for instance the denim and also the oversized biker jackets, reminding us of some 90's works of Jacobs when he worked for Perry Ellis. The leather jackets (some made of ostrich leather) are stunning with over-accessorized beadings and embroideries, taking an oversize proportion like the one he created for his eponymous label. Another inspiration for the biker jacket is obviously the Comme Des Garçons-esque shape, creating a new proportion by deconstruting it. One element that we cannot ignore is the overwhelming black, certainly Comme Des Garçons favourite colour and it appears easy to make the comparison because Jacobs is  a worshipper of Rei Kawakubo.







After this collection we have in mind Kate Moss, Amber Valetta, Naomi Campbell during the AW12 collection around fetish and the obsession for outrageous beauty without being a prostitute. It is an obsession that Jacobs has explored at many times. For instance, the AW13 women leaving the hotel room or SS08 kinky parade of nurses opening the show with their black lace masks and their Cheshire Cat smiles, questioning where stand the boundaries between sexy and rude? All the evening embroidered lace dresses, lace embroidered pants and the body suits have this non-appropriate aesthetics. Another favourite Jacobs's gimmick is when he plays with kitsch styling, echoing the SS11 with the Asian theme and the intentionally tacky colours. What is tacky here is the over-over used of feathers, of beads and embroideries which some have to be displayed, hiding some parts of the models' body in a funny/odd way. Marc Jacobs loves to provoke , to derange and to shock because it is his unique way of telling stories. The whole collection is a tribute to showgirls. Does it sound appropriate now ? It is the suitable end too, the last goodbye. We already miss him. We love him. Long live the showman !








All these pictures come from Style.com and Dazedigital. Here are some of Marc Jacobs's key collections for Louis Vuitton.



AW13 - Hotel Corridor






SS13- Buren Escalators




AW12 - Railway Station





SS12 - Carrousel




AW11 - Lifts




AW10 - Fountain






SS08 - Richard Prince Nurse




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