29/09/2013

ECCENTRIC OPULENCE

Paris Fashion Week has been shaken up in the good way by Rick Owens "Vicious" SS14 collection, spreading like a virus his anti-establishment dark aesthetics definitely the must-see presentation of the week, empowered by his warrior step-dancers, not the usual model runway. It is a kind of revolution for PFW, not the kind of city where you can find this kind of performance. Nowadays, it is very difficult to stand out among all these runway shows because there are so many talents, and designers have to push all the boundaries to shine without forgetting to take into account the buyers and the business law. Everything looks so conventional, so BORING right now, there is often an impression of déjà-vu runway after runway. We  already had this feeling after the New York and London Fashion Weeks but fortunately, some designers do not lose this rebel/innocence approach in their creations. It is perhaps the only ones to bring something new and pure that will shake our habits.




It was not a performance displaying for Christopher Kane at LFW, but it was about flowers in an eccentric opulence. How to  convey the idea of a woman being a flower, without being litteral? Kane's collection is all about it. It is a new storytelling, far from the AW13 horror story which was also a ultimate collection celebrating all his past collections, in other words, a wardrobe made of exquisite signature pieces (made of fur, lace, leather, prints, embroideries, velvet...).
For next summer, Kane worked with satin/silk, flowery lace, sheer in black, mint, lilac, nude and metallic. His flower/woman is very rare, precious and fragile, but she is above all very daring and irreverently sexy. Metal appliqué that lazer-cuts the garments, embracing the shape of the petals, furiously spreading on several outfits. Obviously revealing a part of the body like the lace print flowery pattern, flattering the shape, suggesting the body underneath. 





The flower/woman metaphor is also highlighted by the petals imitating for instance a neck on a dress or a pocket on a lace jacket. Again,when you think of the flowery metaphor, there are so many levels of interpretation. Take for instance the three bondage looks that are an upside down version of a bouquet, or the satin panelled drape dresses covering the model like petals around a beautiful rose.





Kane's love for patterns, embroidery and prints is what makes this collection eccentric and oppulent. Kane takes his print inspiration on what has surely striken him during his early years as a schoolboy, attending biology lessons, especially the scientific depiction of a flower. Here is probably the starting point of his new print pattern, explaining flower reproduction in several schemas, lazer-cutting in  dresses, corolla skirts and also on loose top and its matching pencil skirt, all made of soft satin. Kane embroidered on cashmere sweaters the standout SS14 print, adding sequined petals that are also featured in its matching sheer skirt.  The print takes another sophistication for the grand finale in the four last looks, composed of evening sheer dresses, all handmade embroidered. There was no other way to end this brilliant collection, electrocuting the audience with these shocking flowery garments. In a way it has to be printed in our minds too, because it is Kane's signature and it is definitely standing out. It is funny to play with the relationships between flowers and women. Considering his AW13 collection it was Les Fleurs Du Mal and the idea of beauty somehow in the evil place, obviously the opposite of this SS14 collection, less hard and rather soft.







All these pictures come from style.com.

28/09/2013

W.A.R.M. TOP 10 PFW SPECIAL [PART ONE]


1/ The Show: Rick Owens SS14 (video by Diane Pernet)




2/ The Models: Incredible Performers/Dancers @RickOwens (pic from DazedDigital)




3/ The Unexpected Detail: Back of la veste Bar @Dior




4/ The Accessory: Umbrella Hats @Chalayan (via Style.com)




5/ The One To Watch: Yang Li




6/ The Soundtrack: Slow by Kylie Minogue @Dior





7/ The Shoes: High Heels @Dior ( pic from Style.com)




8/ The Set: Arcade Game Room @Jacquemus (pic by Lea Colombo)


  

9/ The Standout Look: Lamé Ruffles @DriesVanNoten (via Style.com)



10/ The Must Haves: Woven Raffia Pieces @Balenciaga (via Style.com)





COME AS YOU WERE








CHEAP MONDAY SWEAT
CHEAP MONDAY JEANS
RAY BAN Sunglasses
CHEAP MONDAY Bracelet
CREATIVE RECREATION Sneakers


27/09/2013

HERO OF THE WEEK: A$AP ROCKY THE TRENDY NIGGA

Nowadays, there is a race between stars to be the first one to wear next season pieces before they hit stores six or eight months later. Sometimes, these stars even wear the pieces right after the runway! In the Hip Hop culture, more than in any other world, wearing expensive and brand new outfits is the best way to show your level of achievement. In the 80s and 90s, such brands as Gucci or Versace were their safe and riskless weapons of choice. Now, it seems that hip hop singers choose edgier and more daring designers (sometimes newcomers) such as Raf Simons, Astrid Andersen or KTZ. These stars are now big fashionistas just like Anna Dello Russo or Miroslava Duma, their looks being photographed and dissected by bloggers and fashion journalists all over the world. So, it is not that surprising that A$AP Rocky talks about Fashion in his latest video Fashion Killa (from his album Long Live A$AP) where along with Rihanna, they are wearing must haves from this season while having a frantic shopping session. She is the Fashion Killa, he is the Trendy Nigga, what else can be said?



24/09/2013

WALK BITCH!








PETER PILOTTO X PRINTEMPS Sweat
CHEAP MONDAY Jeans
UNDERGROUNG Apollo Creepers
CHEAP MONDAY Necklace
KENZO Arm Sleeves



23/09/2013

W.A.R.M. TOP 10 MFW SPECIAL

1/  The Collection: Prada SS14





2/  The Set: Painted faces on the walls @Prada




3/  The Accessories: Furry Bags @Fendi




4/  The Model: Malaika Firth @Prada




5/  The Soundtrack: Pop Mix of M.I.A "Bring the noize", Bow Wow Wow "I Want Candy" and Britney Spears "Work Bitch" @Prada








6/  The Unexpected Detail: Artful Pinafore Dress @JilSander





7/  The Musthave: Embroidered Visors @Marni




8/  The Standout Look: Fur lazer-cut panelled Bustier Dress @Fendi




9/  The Beauty: Short Haircuts with a Furry Chignon @Fendi





10/ The Theme: Neo Nippon Sporty Attitude @Marni





All these pictures come from DazedDigital and Style.com websites.



22/09/2013

DON'T MESS WITH THE PRADA LADY!



Strong women, women of power have always been at the core of Miuccia Prada's work. She has always loved to feature women who are not afraid of anything. Not afraid of wearing impossile shoes, fur in Summer, ugly chic garments, naive-printed tops and skirts, über-embroidered coats and so on and so forth. And for her Spring Summer 2014 collection, Ms Prada did not depart from her favourite theme by offering her vision of women you really don't want to mess with.

Never looking back, never looking to what others would do or never going where people think you're going seem to be Miuccia Prada's mottos and while for her resort collection (as part of the men's collection), she designed a rather dark collection (even if there were tropical prints), for next Spring she imagined a colourful, fun, extremely accessorized and styled collection, an ode to women, to their strength, to their beauty, to their boldness. For a woman who once said "I'm trying to make men more sensitive and women stronger" it seems quite natural, doesn't it?


As we have already said, women are at the center of this collection. Women are everywhere, on the walls and even on the clothes! Femininity is everywhere with clothes suggesting a certain idea of beauty and certainly not, the commonly accepted cliché conveyed by so many designers! For Miuccia, this idea is boring so she always goes further by as she said "always researching new ideas on beauty and femininity and the way it is perceived in contemporary culture". Her girls dare to say what they have to say by wearing clothes made for at the same time to be beautiful and sexy but also and it's the point here, made to be modern days warriors! To be sexy and feel beautiful, the designer proposes multiple and gorgeous embroidered dresses that only show the skin we need to see. Here a clivage, there a navel. Most of them are strapless and show the lines of shoulders. Sometimes, to suggest even louder this hyper femininity, this infinite power of women, embroidered bras are displayed over the dresses or coats. 














Embroideries are everywhere in this collection and it's one of Miuccia's trademark and after all, aren't diamonds a girl's best friend? They are on the clothes, on the accessories (bags, bracelets and tube socks) and on the shoes, which are, as often in Prada collections, one of the focal points, one of the things where all the attention is centered. Here, the shoes have a particular sportswear touch with rubber heels or soles and sometimes, high heels have ribbed rubber parts on the front. The sportswear inspiration is made even more obvious with these neo platform sole rubber sandals reminding us of these strange shoes sportsmen wear before coming on the field. And the presence of the ribbed tube socks with multi-coloured stripes just emphasize this impression of a very sporty chic girl ready to struggle with the urban jungle. And please, don't mess with her!













These multi-coloured stripes can also be found in some of the garments and combined with the hyper-feminine dresses, they convey an impression of a newgen sportswear that buries deep all the New York designers that made "sportswear chic" their speciality. Here, it is a sleeveless ribbed sweater, the bottom of a skirt, just a collar or a bra top. Small pieces of clothes for a very powerful styling. But styling doesn't stop with this mix n'match of materials and styles. In this collection, Miuccia Prada proposes once again (after her SS13 Japan inspired collection) fur for Summer not only on coats but also on skirts worn over knee-high dresses. This fur is often in bright and pop colours with rainbows, tropical prints (a reminder of the Resort collection) or with faces of women. It's fun but at the same time, very expensive. The Prada Lady is powerful but knows how to have fun! And it is also obvious if we consider the soundtrack of the show, clever mix of M.I.A, Britney Spears and Bow Wow Wow's I want Candy











One day, Miuccia Prada said about Feminism: "Enough of sweetness, women need to get out there and fight again" and we guess this SS14 collection is the perfect collection for this. Of course, her girls are wearing dresses that look like jewels (almost works of art). Of course, they are wearing furs and embellishments. Of course, they are holding small, little, colourful, feminine bags. But this collection is about something beyond this mere representation of a frozen beauty, it is about energetic women who, day after day, dare to assert what they are inside and are not afraid to get banged up and above all, who are not afraid to strike back.
With this collection, Miuccia Prada offers a pure (and almost moving) celebration of femininity with these magnificent faces of anonymous women reminding us of the work of a Frida Kahlo. An explosion of colours, of textures, an exacerbated maximalism proposing a brand new vision of what should / could be worn in Summer. This is her own vision of beauty but we are sure that sooner or later, it will be commonly accepted. One thing is certain, we cannot wait for this collection to be featured on the covers or editorials of our favourite magazines!



All these pictures can be found on Style.com