10/01/2014

A TASTE OF SUMMER


People often say "No proper seasons anymore" when the weather is not actually what it should be (to make it simple: hot in Summer/rain in Autumn/Snow in Winter/mild temperatures during Spring) and the fact is, more and more often we can hear this sentence because the weather is getting crazy nowadays! But we are a fashion blog not a weather forecast so let's talk about clothes! Do you remember a few months ago our post entitled Climatic Disorders about the big trend of warm coats for Summer spread by such brands as Carven, Miu Miu or Prada? Well, this season it is quite the contrary that is happening! While the London Collection Men (a.k.a LC:M) is now over, we have a strange impression: where are the Winter clothes? Where are the coats? The warm pants? The suitable shoes? The comfortable and cosy tops? Of course, most of the British brands that showed their collections proposed adequate answers to these questions and to the rough Winter temperatures but others seemed to have completely forgotten about what is the definition of "a normal" Winter.

But why? When you see the collections of (to name a few) Nasir Mazhar, Richard Nicoll, Burberry Prorsum or Christopher Shannon you can only wonder WHY? Ok, the clothes are mostly cool and beautiful. Ok, there are some warm pieces, some coats, some knitwear here and there but the overall feeling is "These are not Fall/Winter collections" or at least "these are not Fall/Winter collections for the Northern Hemisphere!". Perhaps, this is the key to this enigma (hope you're not waiting for a kind of Da Vinci Code enigma...), designers are more and more aware that there are other continents in the world than Europe or North America. The emerging countries that are Brazil or South Africa or to a larger extent, countries from the Middle East or Oceania also have their word to say. They also want clothes to wear in Summer whereas the Northern Hemisphere is freezing. They have the money and fashion houses who can't live on fresh air need it. They need this market! So they are trying to speak to the largest audience by designing collections that can be adoptable by the largest number. Sibling, for instance, well known for their crazy knitting skills propose their trademarks but through shorts and mesh tops. The looks are at the same time sporty, sexy and allow the body to breathe while feeling warm and confy. It's a good compromise isn't it? The same goes with the latest collection of Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum. The designer and now CEO of this iconic British brand, imagined a collection full of prints (flowers/leaves, kilim or the map of London) mixing heavy fabrics such as wool with lighter ones for the tops (silk or the mesh tank tops under the shirts). The fact that the first looks were only composed of clothes that can be mostly worn during lenient weathers is not a coincidence! The Burberry man (or boy because he doesn't seem very old) is sexy, confident and not afraid of showing a little bit of skin even if, Baby it's cold outside! For his AW14 collection, Christopher Shannon took his inspiration from This is England and the British working class in general. The boys counterbalance their wild (and pretty wet) looks with androgynous cuts such as these long knits showing the legs and pretty dangerous in case of cold drafts. He also designed leather jackets and shorts worn with jumpers and sneakers (without socks of course!).

To sum it up, if you are boy living on the Northern side of the world, we have only one piece of advice for you, you should already mentally train for next Winter by having ice-cube filled baths and by running naked in the snow just in case and girls (and boys too!), be happy, after the Summer, you could still enjoy (and maybe more) the fit legs of cute guys who love Fashion!


SIBLING







BURBERRY PRORSUM






CHRISTOPHER SHANNON












All these pictures can be found on Fucking Young!

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