31/01/2014

FUR FANTASY


Kopenhagen Fur opened Copenhagen Fashion Week, proving that fur is the number 1 luxury good in the whole world. "Kopenhagen Fur is the world 's largest fur skin auction house and the centre of the international fur trade. Kopenhagen Fur's label programme and its label guarantee the best fur products on the market providing consumers with the ultimate labelling system." Their runway is an illustration of their collaborations with young designers, luxury houses and researchers from all around the world. Fur is unique as a fabric, but it has to be deconstructed, re-invented and updated a just like any other materials. There's a part of triviality in fur in a sense of its use, so it has to be modernised, re-worked as if it were the first time. All the brands are challenging their design team to give a new approach to fur, breaking the cliché or the idea of the classic fur coat, imaging women being a kind of Cruella DeVill. Prada, Fendi or Astrid Andersen are all embracing the idea of fur fantasy which is fur 2.0. Clearly fur should no longer be considered as something exquisite, even it will always be, but something trivial, fun, non-boring, considered as being profane, cool and young. We have in mind Prada trompe l'oeil coats, Fendi monster goodies and Iroquois headpieces, Celine "Daisy Duck" shoes and sporty sandals, Astrid Andersen basketball vest, Rick Owens boxing gloves or Yohji Yamamoto boxy culottes and there are undoubtedly many more unexpected ways and details we have forgotten to mention. 


Rick Owens SS12 (pic via Dazed Digital)
Grace Jones In Fendi (Pic via Dazed Digital)
Prada SS14 (Pic via Dazed Digital)

Céline SS13 (Pic via Style.com)
Balenciaga AW13 (Pic via Dazed Digital)
During Kopenhagen Fur young designers such as Freja Dalsjo played with fur as if it were a pattern on pieces of fabric. Fur from different animals is sewing together  giving  standout graphic impact to a cocoon coat. In the same idea there were fur embellishments on shoes and also on the coats, giving texture and sophistication. It is a new approach to luxury goods which  is more relaxed and easy to wear, wondering at first sight if it's really fur or a colourful coat. There was a certain eccentricity on these furry shoes, always unexpected and by no means pretentious or showy. Perhaps Freja Dalsjo stands for a more straighforward idea of luxury, having Phoebe Philo's work in mind. Her collection stands out proving that fur is nothing but a piece of fabric.


All these pictures come from the Copenhagen Fashion Week website.

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