07/01/2014

IS FASHION EAST RULING #LCM?


"Fashion East is a pioneering non-profit initiative established by the Old Truman Brewery in 2000 to nurture emerging young designers through the difficult early stages of their career. It receives sponsorship funding from Topshop, TOPMAN and The Greater London Authority"

The Fashion East initiative is the place where you can get the pulse of fashion regarding the collections in London. Their presentations (also called installations) permit the media and audience all over the world to meet and get to know the designers who will show their collections during this 3-day fashion week. For us, the list of the designers of Fashion East is very important and of course, we cannot talk (and write) about Fashion in London without speaking of Fashion East because it is here, during this presentation, that perhaps we will meet the new Alexander McQueen or someone who will bring a brand new breath of fresh air and who will let us completely flabbergasted! This is the definition of Fashion East according to us! For this article, we wondered if this initiative was effective and proved a career booster for these new designers. The least we can say is that there is a huge number of talents promoted by Fashion East who are now names that count, genuine powerful fashion designers in British Fashion. To name a few: JW Anderson, Agi & Sam or Shaun Samson for menswear and, Gareth Pugh, Simone Rocha or Meadham Kirchhoff for womenswear. So, we can already answer the question we are asking in the title: obviously, this question is purely rhetorical! Yes, Fashion East rules LCM!

Yesterday, on Monday, the highly anticipated shows were Fashion East and MAN. Nicomede Talavera (who presented at Fashion East installations) offered a collection that seems more accomplished than those of his counterparts: Tom Ryling, Liam Hodges and Roxanne Farahmand. We already had a crush on Nicomede Talavera inasmusc as we discovered his collab with Eatspak. You know how much we love the Eastpak collabs! His collection is graphic with sharp cuts elongating the look, giving a sci fi tone. The androgynous attitude is well-balanced thanks to the cuts and mixed with a sporty feeling you can find in the loose, slouchy pants. With this collection, Nicomede Talavera succeeds in balancing a strict, sharp look with a casual, sporty, cool attitude. It goes the same with the colours: the shades of grey are empowered by the unexpected appearance of burgundy and bright green breaking the neutral resonance of this collection. The sporty side is counterbalanced by the different fabrics used to design the tops (pony skin or leather for instance). This collection has a lot to say when it comes to visual with the dominance of white straps underlining the silhouettes.






Another designer who completely masters visual effects and definitely one to watch is Bobby Abley. There was a lot to look at in his new AW14 collection and we did not know where to lay our eyes. On the evil teddy bears? On the maleficent headpieces? On the weird and indefinable mouth devices forcing it to remain open? We are far from the fairy tale collection of SS14, far from Prince Charming this time, far from this cupcake pop fantasy! The sweetness is gone, we are invited to an evil Disneyland, a collection aiming at being dark without losing its childish and rather fun side. Bobby Abley loves to play with the codes of Pop Culture. It is cool because made with common sense and wit. As usual, with Bobby Abley the most interesting and striking pieces are the printed ones with which he plays. A brain print styled with a furry top. A wire print on a coat along with a haunted mansion sweater. An the R.I.P. top leads us into a gothic romance broken with the Dream On top. And we don't even mention the evil black bird printed pieces that make us completely crazy! With this incredible collection, we constantly oscillate between dream and nightmare, diving into Bobby Abley's mind. His imaginary knows no limit and that's what makes him an amazing storyteller!








Perhaps, this is the main quality of Fashion East: knowing no boundaries. The designers and the persons in charge of the selection are not afraid of being completely free in their work, of designing exactly what they have in mind. Now, we are sure that Fashion also rises on the East!


The Bobby Abley backstage pictures were taken by Eva K. Salvi and come from Fucking Young!

The Nicomede Talavera backstage pictures were taken by Derrick Kakembo and come from Fashion156.


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