05/01/2014

KAWAKUBO LOVES JACQUEMUS


On December 25th in NewYork, Rei Kawakubo opened a new Aladdin's cave, Dover Street Market New York, following the ones already established in Ginza and London. This new mega über luxury store is probably the only way to understand which designers Rei Kawakubo loves, travelling all around the world to find who is gonna be stocked in her market, revealing also who she admires and really fancies. Kawakubo is cannot be described as a "chatterbox" so the chaotic yet structured gathering of "dope" designers displayed on the DSMNY's corners stands for her speech, her personal support for established brands and young designers such as Simon Porte Jacquemus, certainly one of the ones to watch.

Pic by Sabine Mirlesse




"Creation takes things forward. Without anything there is no progress. Creations equals new[...] As the weight of experience piles up, it has become increasingly difficult to find yet new ways of thinking and make new things."

Creating new is nothing but giving something that hasn't been done, something that doesn't exist. It is probably why Jacquemus is featured in DSMNY, simply because he has a story to tell, something totally new and meaningful for the Japanese icon. Kawakuo has naturally "a crush" on him. About Jacquemus, she said: "At 20 to do a collection precisely, you must be someone talented."

Jacquemus is a French natural born designer based in Paris. A unique character who decided to go on a symbolic strike during the first Fashion Night Out in Paris, bringing the noise on his third collection, catching the eyes of the media. Having the brilliant idea of showcasing his first runway collections for AW13  La Piscine  and  SS14 La Grande Motte in unconventional settings such as a swimming pool or an arcade game room, so intriguing and funny. Telling something and bringing something new without following the "conventional rules", obviously this peculiar attitude helps Jacquemus to make it to the streets in a short period of time, already been stocked in a few boutiques such as Opening Ceremony, Wood Wood, LN-CC, and now Dover Street Market New York, Jacquemus will become the name on eveybody's lips if it is not already the case. Who wouldn't like to be chosen and knighted by Kawakubo ?

La Grande Motte is a story that has to be told, while listening to Madonna's Holiday (according to us, but the Jacquemus runway soundtrack was more 80's electro than 80's pop), in four pop colours ( white, blue, pink and green), not more not less, easy daring pieces for Summer. Rounded, oversized, cropped and long shapes in simple cut where a t-shirt stands as much as a coat or a sweater dress. Nothing pretentious, but mesmerising pieces empowering your wardrobe. Cupcake pink, soft green, sharp white and this shocking blue (Jil Sander or Klein blue) that we love so much, each colour stands between others, referring according to us to the trouble of being young. The difficulty of bringing a new idea each season is challenged with La Grande Motte, in which Jacquemus has celebrated and updated in his own way the idea of less is more.











All the runways pictures come from Jacquemus website.

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