"69 année érotique" sang Gainsbourg and Birkin. Philip Larkin named one of his poems  Annus Mirabilis, a reference to this year. It is also the year when Yves Saint Laurent created the Smoking which was a revolution giving the power to women in a sense. It was the absolute idea of modernity that is still haunting womenswear today. The boy meets girl attitude is not only a womenswear matter, but menswear designers follow this revolution. Now boys wearing skirts, skorts or in meggings is not very surprising, not even provoking because it is not the purpose, but there is a subtle and sometimes aggressive way to change menswear using androgyny aesthetism.

(Picture by Helmut Newton for Vogue)
 J.W. Anderson does menswear like he does womenswear, designing without thinking of the gender, considering both sex could wear his design. His AW14 for men presents a wardrobe quite similar as his Pre Fall14 dedicated to women. J.W. Anderson points out both the question of the double and gender, suggesting perhaps that his designs have no sex. The long polo neck, the asymetrical cape, the pleated basque jacket, the short sleeved sweater and the tube printed bolero are pieces styled quite differently, depending on the sex, but there is no exception for the shoes as the neo platform mocassins are for both sexes. What is striking is that J.W.'s men line is becoming a kind of research lab that delivers ideas for both lines. Originally J.W. was a menswear label and now there is obviouly no border between his two lines, blurring it collection after collection.

(Pictures from J.W.Anderson's website)
Not only gender question, but sex was also around the corner of a few collections, being the likes of Topman Design. This collection stands out after two seasons of disappointment. The design team certainly worked on every detail, presenting a dark romantic hero, a kind of creature of the night who is definitely sexy, considering his wet appearance. There is the evil red, the innocence of the pale blue, the raw pvc, the hardness of the leather patches on the jackets, all combining the idea of hard and soft. The heavy knitwear, the loose pants, the oversized coats and the cropped jackets, all the proportions were damn good as the use of low and profane fabrics. The finale was the best of LC:M with the rain that would not stop and Echo & the Bunnymen in the air singing Killing Moon, obviously a viral moment reminding us of Alexander McQueen  SS 98 Golden Shower.

(Pictures from Style.com)
Irrevent is the word for Bobby Abley AW14 collection in which  S&M/ fetish devices (that keep the mouth wide open) put a shadow on his usual Disney fantasy aesthetism. The would be prince charming doesn't have the conventional qualities, he is more like a villain who looks vicious and pervert. Perhaps he wants to drag you to some gloomy place? Abley plays with codes of both pop culture and underground, turning it the direction he wants his collection to be and actually making it his own. There is a part of Alexander McQueen boldness in this collection and also punk (punk can be the word to qualify this collection). Just like Topman Design, there is something low and profane in Abley's AW14 collection and sex was definitely in the air!

(Pictures from Style.com)

2 commentaires:

  1. great study on gender, sex, & fashion (& I love that Helmut Newton photo!!) :)

    Corinne xo