28/01/2014

STREET TAILORING

"Street tailoring" is how Juun.J defines his own label, a mix of youth and street culture, a modern approach to menswear, challenging tailoring season after season. It is also a hint of classicism and avant garde, or like he said "diversion of classic", definitely the label we always expect a lot from among others during Paris Fashion Week. Juun.J certainly owns the cut, by deconstructing conventional shapes into his street tailoring. Having learnt the basis of tailoring at Esmod Seoul, giving him the skills to design without limits. The lack of boundaries is obviously the only way to bring new ideas in menswear where there is a lot to do, comparing to womenswear.
Juun.J is part of the fashion landscape, a style that is very recognizable as the label has made its mark, and now producing ad campaigns since two seasons that put forward the genderless attitude of the label, even if it hasn't been a deliberate choice, but a stand out that says a lot about Juun.J's uniqueness. JJ's inspiration comes from the streets, that is probably the explanation of the label aesthetic.
The question of proportions has always been the likes of Juun.J, redefining a piece from a classic menswear wardrobe which becomes the statement of the season such as the dramatic AW10 tartan capes, the minimalist SS10 sheer hoodies, the colour block SS12 k-ways, the neo SS13 pinstripe suits, the sci-fi AW13 neoprene sweaters, the sporty SS14 Sheer tees and the AW14 printed leather parkas.





The AW14 collection got some references from the SS14 collection such as the pinstripe, but the sporty attitude is somehow lost, erased by the predominance of leather, giving a sophisticated strength and hardness. Almost all the looks are made out of soft leather and all are very sexy and provocative like these "combi-pants" or the head to toe leather oufits. There are also serious oversized cuts in the coats, the woolen tops, the jackets and the shiny down-jackets. 








Actually, shape always comes first in Juun.J's work, as for the SS14 in which radical oversized tops (shirts, jackets and tees) are styled with micro high-waisted shorty shorts. Massive busts balancing with the skinny waist, revealing the sexiest part of the body which is of course the legs! The tops are very masculine, in opposition to the rest of the body that is rather feminine. Both AW14 and SS14 are new steps in Juun.J's creation, delivering a look that hasn't been done before. The South Korean designer will certainly go on challenging menswear and tailoring in the future, proposing bold shapes. We just have to wait for the next collection.







All the pictures come from the Juun.J website.

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