Vogueing extravaganza (Pictures via I-D Online)
Branding is where Shayne Oliver ( the boy behind Hood By Air) has succeeded, bringing his HBA logo to stand out, being as daring as the Kenzo Tiger, KTZ oversized tees or the Givenchy sweaters. No wonder why Hood By Air Classic, his diffusion line, a collection made of desirable sweatshirts has reached the streets. His number of worshippers or his tribe are not only his friends, but people all around the world. We had some expectations regarding his new collection after watching his enigmatic AW14 Trans trailer. We hoped to see more than references from his SS13 cyber athletic collection, taking no gender to another level by doing something that hasn't been done before. Our expectations have been very high, considering this confusing trailer.

Pictures Via DazedDigital

This AW14 collection was a performance with special cameos from Shayne Oliver's friends such as Boychild and Mikki Blanco, ending up by a brutal vogueing dance including the deisgner himself. It was a "showgirls runway" with the blurring genderless models (real models and trans). A spectacular show,nothing more. The emotion was only to be felt in the air (the intense atmosphere), but not in the clothes. All the attention was on the special venue, the no gender creatures, the vogueing, the aggressive soundtrack, all these elements at the end have diverted our attention from the clothes. Shayne Oliver has undoubtedly many ideas but there were nothing new in what he presented. Considering the SS14, we have the impression the AW14 was literally the fall version, a repetition. Adding leather embossed branding jackets and updating his HBA classic sweaters (stunning and highly desirable,) but for us, it is not enough for a collection. Perhaps our expectations were too high. HBA is a unique label and we need this "stand for something" aesthetic, because it is more than a fashion brand. Each HBA collection is a new manifesto made of groundbreaking statements about gender, beauty, society,lifestyles, but as far as we are concerned  this time it wasn't clear enough for us. We are not under Hood By Air charm this time but who knows, maybe next time?  

Pictures Via Style.com

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