09/02/2014

WANG ALL ON OUR MOUTHS LIKE LIQUOR

"In NewYork! Concrete jungle where dreams are made of...", that's the story of Alexander Wang, a boy and a label which is on everyone's lips. It's "Wang all on everyone's mouth like liquor!" The changing location of his show has also been the talk of the town. Alexander Wang has decided to deliver his AW14 collection in Brooklyn, moving the circus of fashion from the city center. Wang is a 100 percent NewYork label, so Brooklyn is just a setting matter, nothing more, nothing less.

Pictures via DazedDigital
We have already forgotten the SS14 school yard and the AW13 boxing ring is very far away. This time, the boy Wang wants industrial, imposing this raw metallic archway in which the models have to walk in a strong manner. One thing that is Wang's trademark, probably the most recognisable element was the bouncing soundtrack, the ghetto anthem, the street attitude giving us the impression that Wang's girls are dancing in a way. The first looks remind us of Wang's past collection theme ("Wall Street banker meets Velvet de Jour"), but here, it is more utilitarian military uniform meets sharp working girl (for the reference you have in mind the stereotypes and watch the 80's social comedy Working Girl with Sigourney Weaver and Melanie Griffith). It is the sharp grey dress-coat vs the neon mac worn with a suit, all worn with a leather collar shirt. The one who buys the suit or the dress-coat must also have the leather shirt! The neon colours also have to be found on stunning woven turtleneck sweaters describing an embossed cable knitting. We love when Wang plays with proportions like he does with these voluminous shearling jackets styled with the large collar zipped dresses. One year at the head of Balenciaga has changed Alexander Wang, displaying what he has found in the couture archives in hiw own label. No need to wonder from where comes the inspiration of these raffia woven tops, the leather fringe vest-dresses and the futuristic boots. We don't like putting label on one designer's work, here it is couture-streetswear as we cannot forget the raw suede jackets and coats with their unfinished hems. The stand out looks come at the unexpected end with these statement leather embossed painted coats and the woven leather tops and jackets worn by über-models. These showstopper looks leave us completely speechless just like (probaby) the priviledged audience. No matter Wang's venue, it's worth the trip to Brooklyn. 

Pictures via Style.com


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