There is no antagonism between Riccardo Tisci and Givenchy. Tisci's appointment at the head of the Couture house wasn't warmly welcome just like all the former designers (Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald) since Hubert De Givenchy in person actually. There is always the problem of a young designer taking over an old established house, because of its heavy legacy and everyone's ideas about how a designer has to rule and create. But Tisci has brought dark romanticism, star coding, ambiguity, floral, urban couture, animal, spirituality, geometry, metal crafts, all these trademarks that were outrageous and misunderstood at his arrival. Tisci has made Givenchy his own, one of the most recognizable brands. Their luxury goods have made it to the streets, becoming a kind of modern uniform.
Not sure whether the severe criticisms that Tisci had to endure at his arrival at the head of Givenchy or even recently when people began to complain about the fact that the urban sporty attitude and the sweatshirts were enough had a real effect on the designer. He loves to go off the beaten tracks and he loves to surprise people when they don't expect any surprise. So, this season, after a SS14 collection where some codes were disappearing and where Asia meets Africa through long sequined dresses, Riccardo Tisci chose to drop what seemed to be his trademark to present something completely different yet completely tisci-esque. It is not Dark Romanticism any longer but über-femininity. With this AW14 collection, it was all about how he was able to translate his idea of a sophisticated woman into his own language. He had to give up some of his signatures, but not all of them. There were animal prints, geometry and ambigüity. Printed sheer dresses but also masculine suits. Then you had python dresses and stand out furs; and you moved on to the brown all over leather looks. Tisci's collection went viral at the end of the show with three looks: couture dresses made out of leather shiny python top and black sheer skirt and the bitchy Mariacarla wearing metal embroidered top and its sheer black skirt. This collection stands out without branding effect such as the bambi, the Madonna, the shark or the rottweiler but are we really gonna miss them?
All these pictures were talen by Lea Colombo and can be found on DazedDigital