One of our fave fashion duos and happy couple (they seem to be in love) Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are the boys (because they are young and talented) behind Proenza Schouler honoured by Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche in Paris in a retrospective on a large part of their ground floor and also in a pop up store selling limited goods designed for the occasion. Proenza and Schouler stands for the maiden names of McCollough's and Hernandez's mothers. Literally 2 that became 1 when they established their brand in 2002. They created new basics by pushing the boundaries and by editing new fabrics, textures and by creating handbags such as the iconic PS1 that definitely became a (new) classic. This exhibition points out their obsession with fabrics, textures and cratfsmanship from ancient savoir-faire that inspired them during trips around the world to digital and technological techniques of printing or cutting. Their collections often look like a sophisticated patchwork of many inspirations.
For their Spring Summer 12 presentation they called their "Tumblr collection", they started with complex sewing of different printed skins (python, alligator) together, then you had tribal woven leather jackets and skirts, lazer cutting lace, leather and silk patchwork dresses, 3D printed patchwork dresses embellished with eyelets, all embodying the random contents they got from Tumblr.
In their Autumn Winter 11, the Native American beauty got an architectural extravagant touch, taking another level far from the clichés. What is striking here with this collection is that their deconstructionist process of creation is always a tribute as you could see it if you read between the lines.
Their interpretation of Asia for Autumn Winter 12 is obviously one of our favourite collections: the Chinese like embroideries on a padded sweater, the red leather woven leather jackets and skirts, the gold, the peacock, the asymetric engraving like silky jacquard, the samouraï like padded blue jackets, all standing in front of us as we could almost touch them (and maybe we did). All these pieces captured an emblematic element from Asia without being too literal but represent more an avant-garde inspired Asian collection.
The dramatic handpainting patterns from the Spring Summer 14 was also part of the exhibition and increased our excitement, because it is one of the showstopper silhouettes of the season. In this collection, you can also feel their love for natural elements, reflecting on the prints and also on the fringe jacket, the colours and a metallic liquid like bustier.
The Proenza Schouler boys look more like craftsmen than designers. Their addiction to ancient techniques as well as their passion for arts and technologies, their patchwork language and their uncompromising aesthetic, all these elements are essential and necessary to rework and reboot American luxury.