22/04/2014

PERSPEX AND CIRCUMSTANCE

Among the twelve finalists of the LVMH Young Fashion Designers Prize we have made our choice. The panel of creative directors will announce the winner on May the 28th, but according to us it is Simone Rocha who deserves to win. She's got the strongest aesthetic among all the other designers and it has a deep and strong impact on us. She's more than a young fashion designer. She is an accomplished designer with a unique language. Having your own voice out there is not something that you can buy in a shop. It has to be natural when it comes to creation, something Rocha has deep inside her, something translated in her collections.




Her inspired Elisabethan AW14 collection of great perspex (her signature brogues) and circumstance rather than pomp and circumstance being the best collection of the latest London Fashion Week according to us of course! Rocha looked to the past for the royal inspiration, but not too much and you had the clothes for the rebel and the irreverent feelings coming out. Here you could read her signature in every garment. This collection is like an accomplished definition of her style. Her love for pearled embellishments and lace, but also her obsession with cheap and punk fabrics such as PVC, Faux Fur and python. The print of the PVC dresses looks like a leopard motif but instead, it is dark flowers. Her idea of beauty is perverse, low and profane. The sophistication of the pony skin dress, coat and skirt gives way to more outrageous pieces such as a faux fur coat and a sleeveless top in the following outfits. Rocha deconstructed formal garments such as trench coats and elisabethan shape dresses and trashed it, giving new proportions on the waist of dresses, adding ruffles on the sleeves embellished with pearls. There were references to the Elisabethan era but also to her mentor Kawakubo in the shapes, the colours (pink, red, glossy black) and in the wrinkled tartan. Kawakubo must be very fond of Rocha's work and style, considering the space dedicated to her SS14 collection in Dover Street Market. Rocha put Kawakuo under her spell, therefore everybody should be charmed.
















All these backstage pictures can be found on Simone Rocha's website




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