16/04/2014

SWINGING SAINT LAURENT

'Had Ten Dollaz' by Cherry Glazerr was the best soundtrack of  the AW14-15 collections as this song has been haunting us since the Saint Laurent presentation. It was not an easy choice as there were a lot of powerful songs to remember such as the Proenza Schouler 'Work It' remix or Dior 'dirty techno' mix. Saint laurent's music has nothing to do with 'dirty techno' or 'shake ur bootay songs' because Hedi Slimane is in charge of the soundtrack, always looking for a Rock sensation as it is written in his DNA. The sweet voice of Cherry Glazerr must have been the likes of Hedi Silmane, a L.A garage band he surely discovered during one of the Echo Park gigs, photographing the alternative scene of L.A. as you can have a look on his online diary or have more by grabing Anthology of a Decade which gathered all his works from 2000 to 2010. Rock and Photography are definitely Slimane's passions, considering he dropped Dior Homme in 2007 to live in L.A, a city he is obsessed with. This time it's Cherry Glazerr's turn to be under the spotlights for this 11th collection after Froth, Liars, Thee Oh Sees, Ty Segall... and other artists part of the music projects such as Curtis Harding, Courtney Love, Marilyn Manson or Daft Punk. This collaboration with artists has become one of Saint Laurent's trademarks and the source of Slimane's inspirations apart from youth and its subculture. That's what Slimane brought to Yves Saint Laurent, breaking the idea of people about this luxury house which has a heavy legacy he definitely had to challenge (he made a symbolic but very important choice by changing the name of the house). The music project looks like Slimane's legacy to the house, even if it is perhaps too soon to speak about it. Slimane built the menswear at Dior, creating a silhouette of the past decade that still has an influence nowadays, a style which is definitely relevant. He has also brought an attitude with him, something quite low and more realistic for the Parisian house which seems to become bourgeois something Yves Saint Laurent despised above all. Slimane made Saint laurent his own, playing with the codes of the house updated with a grunge, and somehow boho sophistication, a glitter glam galore, punk and DIY hardware, youth subculture (Skate & Surf), everything that means something to him, in other words everything he cares about.









These pictures come from Hedi Slimane's diary

The AW14 womenswear collection was full of everything Slimane believes in like the Cherry Glazerr's song he wanted us to discover. Slimane made Saint Laurent swing with many references from the sixties. The shorty mondrian dresses and the skirts which let the legs completely free for dancing, jumping, moving in general. There were  many sequined embellishments, shiny jacquard and silk, glitter babies and satchels all referring  to a style that was popular in the sixties, something girls like Edie Sedgwick or Twiggy could have worn. Every girl would kill to have the gold saharienne, the sequined tartan skirt or the shiny pink babies. You could try to copy Slimane's Saint Laurent by going to a vintage shop, dreaming of bumping into sequined pieces, glam glitter accessories, but it would only be a cheaper version. Yet, that's what is going to happen as every girl craves for being the new Twiggy. Slimane captured an element of the past that people will recognise as being Saint Laurent's style and there is no doubt that everybody will follow!










The runway pictures come from Style.com

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