Thinking of the last decade and how we used to dress, makes us realise the importance of the slim/skinny black denim jeans in every man's wardrobe. The silhouette of the 00's is the one Hedi Slimane has created and every boy and even girl dreams to have the full look. It's striking how it has changed everything. Slimane's style is still relevant and more than ever now as he is in charge of the Saint Laurent collections, responsible for the return of the Grunge attitude. It is highly difficult to ignore Slimane's influence in fashion as every high street brand is now copying him. But Raf Simons aesthetic is definitely the new shape and his silhouette is expressing the modernity of this decade. His collections are less obvious to copy because of the boldness and uniqueness of both the fabrics and the shapes. Avant-garde pieces have nothing to do with high street market and it would be a commercial suicide if any brands tried to do the same.
|Fathers: Announcing the Birth of Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby, Editorial on Spring/Summer 2014 Arena Homme +|
Raf Simons has created what he calls an interzone which he describes as "a place with extremes, with no rules and a lot of attitudes". Each collection will be an exploration of a new interzone. It is like a playground, full of Simons's obsessions and excentricities. His AW14 collaboration with Sterling Ruby is not another collection, but it was the right time to start over by editing a new language of fashion and presenting something which expresses the work of the two artists. This collection is like a patchwork of memories and stories written and displayed on the clothes. A complex story having different level of understanding, but taking its obvious inspiration from both Simons and Ruby's love of Punk and D.I.Y collages. This collab/collection is a statement on its own, delivering an abstract rebel manifesto as much as OMFG pieces which are daring and bold. We are far from the Pop culture logo-like prints of the SS14 collection, here it is tumblr ramdom obsession pictures (earth, meteors, hands...), acid bleach tie and dye prints, color block, camos, Abus Lang (contraction of abusive language) and Fathers written in large and small letters on the clothes like a kind of signature or logo. This collection is good for both the mind and the body and it is perhaps what Simons and Ruby are suggesting, questioning people's relationships and addiction to social networks and the overdose of communications. "I've come to really question the system. As much as I am part of it, I have to question it for the simple reason that I wonder how far it can go...I don't think I'm the only one. It's not about fashion either, it's the way we consume, the way we communicate and the way the young generation looks at things," he said in an interview to Dazed Digital.
We really want to get into the AW14 interzone, but these pieces look like price on request pieces. We are still not over the SS14 New Shapes manifesto, thinking of the dresses t-shirts and the neo Adidas and still hesitating. Now we have to consider this AW14 collab, thinking of the "fathers" long and cropped sweaters, the bomber jackets, the patchwork knitwears and the camel belted coats at the end of the runway. Remember we have a great affliction about Raf Simons and we have to confess it's not going to stop!
All these close-up pictures come from Style.com