Subculture is irreverent, deranged , underground, having its codes and unique aesthetics shared by a group of people. It is a very bad word for those who are afraid of something they don't understand so they have to reject it because it is something very far from them. It's quite funny how people don't realize the influence of hardcore cultures in their conventional lifestyle, buying a look taking its inspiration from a subculture they haven't heard of. Honestly we haven't heard of GABBER's movement in the nineties, but now we cannot ignore its important influence in some designers aesthetics such as Raf Simons. Loud and heavy techno is part of Simons's DNA and it's not a surprise he uses it for his collection soundtracks both for Dior and for his eponymous brand. The sporty attitude of Gabber's outfits ( a tracksuit with a pair of Nike Air Max) is also very relevant for Raf Simons considering his last season collection and the iconic collabs with Eastpak and Adidas. RAVE is also another major subculture echoing back to the Dries Van Noten AW14 collection. Dries Van Noten reveals in its retrospective at the Musée Des Arts Décoratifs that inspirations are diverse, coming from everything around him, from a vintage Kenzo flying tiger suit to the finest piece of art. Punk or Rave are quite unexpected for a designer like Dries Van Noten but we were astonished to realize and to understand their abilty to affect the designer's work.
|Machine ( Raf Simons Archives)|
|"Systema Solar Soundsystem"|
|Raf Simons X Eastpak ( Raf Simons Archives)|
|"Real Hardcore Compilations"|
|Rave Rave Rave/ Clash Crew ( Dundee 89)|
Primitive London which is an online shop supporting underground London designers around the world embodies this idea of Subculture as originally there was a store on the basement of Lighthouse Studios on Shacklewell Lane with no windows, refusing to be a classic boutique. The uniqueness of Primitive stroke us and we realised there were alternatives to high fashion. That's how we came from London with pieces from the Cottweiler SS 13 collection in our suitcases. "Cottweiler is a British concept-led menswear label providing luxury casual wear focused on simplicity, fonction and fit." Their aesthetic is close to Gabbers but they do not refer directly to them (though the comparison is relevant). This brand sounds like rottweiler meets a utilitarian wardrobe standing out with its sporty influence. It is definitely bold and irreverent as the tracksuit is an emblematic signature uniform of the label which they update collection after collection. Tracksuit is definitely an archetype of the modern uniform, breaking with the stereotypes of menswear casual outfit. We love the Transparent pieces ( hoodie and shorts), the zip lock pocket t-shirt and the logo jogger. In other words, we love the whole collection! Cottweiler is about clothes having a soul and an identity and it's worth nothing in the world we live in.
|Photography by Luis Artemio De Los Santos|