Resort is just as important as the ready to wear collection nowadays as big luxury houses with unlimited credit are ready to spend money and take people away to a faraway destination. Cruise/Pre-Spring and Pre-Fall collections represent 70% of the sales, having a bigger exposure than the ready-to-wear in stores. Not surprising that Chanel, Dior and now Louis Vuitton have all invested in the cruise business considering the enthusiastic reception. Kaiser Karl and Chanel have been the first to launch this 'Game of Thrones' events around the world going to Dubaï this year, and previously to Dallas, Singapore, Linlithgow in Scotland, Versailles, Antibes or Bombay. Dior and Raf Simons chose New York especially Brooklyn to start this war of resorts. More than a battle of who will have more reviews in media, the place of each resort tells a story, a relationship between the luxury house and its customers. America gave to Monsieur Dior fame and success and the press acclaimed his work naming it the New Look. Every resort city with Chanel is a new market as Bombay, Dubaï or Singapore are the places where are the new and future clients compared to the oldest and closest relationships they have with Europe and America. Middle East, Asia and soon South America are definitely the next door markets that are growing very fast.
Vuitton is embracing a new era with the brilliant Nicolas Ghesquière who presented his Pre-Spring collection not in an exotic location but in the emblematic and glamourous city of Monaco in a space where models walked on a digital water floor created by artist Ange Leccia. But that was the only eccentricity allowed as the main attraction was obviously the complete wardrobe proposed by Ghesquière as 45 looks are enough compared to the Chanel Horn of Plenty. There was much ado about something pieces, showstopper shoes, OMFG bags, all having the Ghesquière's realistic signature aesthetic he has explored since his arrival. This collection takes its inspiration from the sea, sportswear and a 70's touch referring to his first collection for Vuitton. The stress is on the waist as almost all the silhouettes are belted or composed of midi mini-skirts and high-waisted pants sculpting the body. It is hyper hyper femininity, sophisticated and fragile beauty in exquisite silky printed or embroidered abstract coral tops and wavy skirts, in transparency sheer tops and ribbed body-conscious dresses, and in sleeveless coral appliqué dresses and skirts. There is a lot of propositions and looks to remember such as the belted suits, the zipped and belted coat dresses, the metallic jacquard punched dresses with the ruffled shiny bottom hem, and all the patent shiny and leather pieces, especially the stunning 3D flower appliqué coat dress which leaves us speechless. All these 45 looks have this richness and savoir-faire, this highest level of craftsmanship of theVuitton atelier. This collection is an example of how Ghesquière can translate his language in a less serious way but in a playful idea of the resort. There is a more let-go attitude embodying the idea of a having fun with it design. That's the feeling we'got through this collection and as the designer said to Style.com " I am inspired and I'm very happy", a feeling, we're sure, will remain since he seems to work in a team where he finds happiness and peace of mind surrounded by people he loves to work with. And the next Vuitton campaign will be the perfect example since Ghesquière picked three of his muses (Charlotte Gainsbourg, Liya Kebede & Freja Beha Erichsen) and three of the photographers he loves collaborating with (Jurgen Teller, Annie Leibovitz & Bruce Weber). It would be a euphemism to say that we cannot wait to see the result!
All these pictures come from LV facebook.