Among all the exciting collections presented at London Collections Men, the MAN SS15 show was the one we were expecting the most, considering the line-up of breakout stars including Nicomede Talavera and Bobby Abley. This post on LCM may seem to be déjà-vu because it's not the first time we write about these designers. But they are definitely the ones to watch and somehow represent the future. We are purposely giving them too much attention because they are worth it. We definitely don't need to wait for the next generation as the future is starting now!
Nicomede Talavera's aesthetics is unique and very recognizable through the tailoring pieces, the pinstripes, the leather toe-less socks, the graphical appliqué, the wide leg pants and the sleeveless top. These signatures pieces were definitely expected in his SS15 collection which is taking its inspiration from Louise Bourgeois 'Fabric Works'. Talevera's challenge was to keep his graphical language playing with different patterns in a brand new way. He produced an innovative patchwork of different prints and a complex layering and overlapping of it, creating a graphical impact and a stylist elongated silhouette which is very daring. There is a navy blue pinstripe over gingham over large checks, a boxy silky top with gingham graphical appliqué over a long tailored top with patchwork of black and white checks, a cropped leather sleeveless top over a knit polo top over long oversized gingham t-shirt/dress. There are other propositions giving surprising and brilliant clash of prints such as the boxy red checks shirt over the long patchwork striped t-shirts over the loose tailored pinstripes or such as the pinstripe jacket with the wide sleeves over the long patchwork t-shirt over the loose leather pants. It's always difficult to start over, bringing something new but Talavera makes us forget about the SS14 essential pieces such as all the tailored tops with the crackled leather aplliqué detailing that made us fall in love and follow each of his collections.
Bobby Abley has already conquered the heart of Asian buyers considering all his stockists locations in the Far East. After this SS15 collection, he will certainly acquire more stockists in America and Europe. There is no other way, they will definitely follow. The Disney villains have never been cherished, but it might change this year with the Maleficent movie starring Dame Angelina Jolie. Abley instead put forward these evil characters in his collections where they have been portrayed as timeless heroes since the beginning. His collections may have a certain influence freeing people who want to worship these bad characters, revealing their passion for Cruella DeVil, Ursula, Hook or other nasty creatures. Disney would remain the main inspiration but there were also a 90s skater boys influence and aloha prints. It's perhaps the coolest and most playful collection of the day that every boy without inhibition will definitely want to wear. That's all that matters. More stockists mean more availability and a chance to grab the boxy printed sweaters, the ripped wide shorts and the sleeveless Ariel top. No matter what will say or write the critics about Abley doing another Disney-inspired collection, we will follow and dive deep into his Little Mermaid world!