10/06/2014

THE THIN WHITE DUKE BY DRIES VAN NOTEN

We missed the world first retrospective of the Pop and Style icon David Bowie in London last year, but we will certainly attend the next year venue in Paris. Grace Coddington in her biography says that Bowie was "a British Icon of glam rock delivering androgyny and men's make-up to the mainstream... glitter and a peculiar tinselly glamour filled in the air".
No surprise  Bowie being such a great inspiration to a lot of designers, considering his avant-garde chameleon sophisticated style. Each album comes with a unique aesthetic, a new alter-ego and a timeless complete wardrobe expressing his state of mind. It's not possible to sum up all his trademarks, but there's some oufits one could never forget.  There is the Bowie from  the classic 60's tailoring of  his debut  Space Oddity, the hippy bohemian chic of The Man Who Sold The World, the extravagance of Glam Rock with Ziggy and Alladin Sane, the post dandy attitude with the Thin White Duke. Of course, the glittering glam outfits are the ones we love the most as we recommend the 1972 live of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders of Mars with the exquisite bowie-esque trademarks such as the japanese inspired Kimonos, the Kansai Yamamoto body suit, the trashy mesh top and the irreverent glossy black pants, and not to forget the vinyl platform boots, all contributing to entertain and to create the legend.





David Bowie's name was written on the Dries Van Noten's wall of inspiration of his retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. His passion for Bowie was expressed during a tribute runway for Fall 2011-12 with all the models having the reddish haircut of the Thin White Duke. More than a tribute, it was like a love letter to David Bowie who was both a starting point  for this collection and how Van Noten would have dressed him. Perhaps for Van Noten Bowie is the archetype of a modern man. It's relevant for the Belgian designer to portray Bowie as the definition of British elegance and all the looks conveyed this idea. A belted navy trench coat worn with loose pants, a peacoat with simple white pants, a stunning a-line camel coat with zipped sporty pants, a one button blazer with a white t-shirt underneath paired with navy loose pants, a double breasted jacket with navy and white pants, all perfect evening wear clothes that Bowie and men would definitely want to wear. It was traditional formal outfits playing with the idea of uniform which came in opposition to the sporty casualness of some pices such as the zipped and bi-colour pants and the cargo and baggy pants paired with  evening jackets. There was nothing more chic than Paul Boche in this camel suit which had something eternal and classy. The embellishments of the jackets with handmade embroideries and furry lapels were another references to the balance between formal traditional and extravagant clothes. There was a lot of pomp and circumstances and romance in these outfits which were a kind of celebration of Bowie through his Thin White Duke alter ego.  Dries Van Noten definitely delivered in this collection the most sophisticated version of a man.













All these pictures come from Style.com.

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