Fashion industry is obviously a business rather than an industry of dreams or of dreamers. But it is certainly made by people who want to tell a unique story. This daydream travel/story has to be a new experience for the customers who also want to be carried away, diving into the designer's story. We do believe fashion has many purposes and its dreamy perspective is the one we cherish the most. Yang Li, who is an optimistic punk London based designer who presents his collections in Paris Fashion Week, captures this emotion with his AW14 "dreamers" collection.
|Pics by Lea Colombo via Dazed Digital|
Everything has already been done in terms of creation over the decades. One designer cannot send a simple dress, a t-shirt or pants on the runway without a story, an innovative cut or a peculiar craft going along with it. There is a demand for pieces that make a fuss, a debate considering the prohibitive prices. Yang Li has nothing to worry about. His AW14 collection features much ado about something pieces deconstructing, reinterpreting and transforming the idea of luxury. He definitely wants us to dream with his collection, telling a personal romantic story with raw fabrics which are his signature such as leathers and animal skins like rabbit furs and calf mixing them with exquisite wool and silks. There's a strong attention on details and also on the choice of fabrics which are essential to create his silhouettes that are elongated, asymmetrical, bold and irreverent. We don't care if we appear as some Cruella DeVill but his furry pieces are to die for! The boxy "dreamer" top, the bra top and the circle long skirt are showstopper pieces as much as the hair calf leathers. It is funny how those fabrics have the power to create a scandal. There is no attempt to provoke with this collection rather than exploring new directions. Those directions that remind you of the work of anti-conformists such as Margiela and Kawakubo. The word "dreamer" sounds like a rebellious slogan. This is clearly a romantic manifesto echoing with Kawakubo's soldiers of peace. Yang Li's idea of luxury is definitely a radical one and his clothes have to stand out for their uniqueness. It is the same idea behind the burgundy half dress over a t-shirt paired with black trousers. Those tricky or perverse looks are the expression of modernity. Yang Li plays with the idea of an evening-wear gown for his breakout finale, ending with the reinterpretation of a red carpet black dress that is very conservative in the front and slightly "slutty" in the back.
There is no irony or no strong criticism about how a luxury collection should be here. This collection is full of contradictions and references such as 90's Grunge and 50's Couture. There's no need to put a label on Yang Li's work. The only thing that matters is the positive message behind this collection because we do believe there's nothing dark about his work. There is still dreamers on the planet and Yang Li is one of them. His only attempt is to make us smile, travel and obviously dream, just like a good old music album would do! So instead of pre-ordering these price on request pieces, we are going to listen to Sonic Youth's Daydream Nation!
|Pics via Style.com|