The new Kenzo fall 2014 campaign by Toiletpaper is clearly an invitation to their mysterious and charming universe behind the heavy monster tool print curtains that one can recall as the carpet of the red room in Twin Peaks, the scary room where every detail of Laura Palmer's murder is going to be revealed. Guinevere Van Seenus and Robbie McKinnon are trapped in this surrealist and funny movie between fiction and some kind of reality which is definitely an ode to Lynch's cinema including some elements of settings such as the telephone from Mulholland Drive and the fairy little room from Eraserhead. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are print and fabric experts so there is no surprise the short movie features such signature pieces as the embroidery on wool jacquard broken floor top, the tool creature sequin embroidery jumpsuit, the textured jacquard neon top and the polo neck colour block jumper made of nylon and wool.
Twin Peaks represents a certain idea of America for David Lynch, a small town symbolizing any small trivial places of America. This metaphor is the starting point of the Kenzo Fall 2014 collections as the coolest duo established a dialogue with Kenzo and American luxury or how to define it ? There is also an attempt to link the Parisian house to the designers' origins and cultural background. It's not only a question of aesthetic, there is also a personal resonance. The story of Laura Palmer is one of American obsessions, remaining one of the 90's tv programs that has affected a generation. It has an impact on the Kenzo designers who are part of this generation.
Every part of pop culture should not be necessarily brought back to life, yet everytime the duet does it, it's a success. Trying to translate Lynch's universe sounds difficult, especially the Twin Peaks kitsch aesthetics but once again, they brilliantly challenge the overwhelming inspiration as they already did with the Kenzo legacy at their arrival. Both the menswear and the womenswear AW14 collections embody this idea of beauty, mystery and weirdness in the common place of America so it's not surprising that the designers deliver a bold and sophisticated, definitely one of the most exciting wardrobes of the season. The silhouettes are a result of the unconventional and strange beauty of the cuts, the shapes, the mix of prints and fabrics, the opposition between low/profane and kitsch/sophisticated. Some looks are purposely awkward such as the neon skirt paired over a printed suit or a jacquard sweater layered over a classic suit. These collections are full of those complex levels of styling and propositions giving this idea of weirdness. We are obsessed with all those printed runway pieces such as the tool creature, the broken floor, the mountains, the Twin Peaks landscape and the neon plaid check. We expect that all those runway ideas will be produced in signature branding products to satisfy the Kenzo fans and the wild at heart weirdos like us!
All these pictures come from Kenzo website.