18/07/2014

SOLDIERS OF PEACE


Pics via Dover Street Market London
Tachiagari means the start of the new season with the launch/landing of the AW14 collections in the three Dover Street Market ( DSM )  from London, Ginza and NewYork stores and soon also in the I.T Beijing Market. With her DSM Rei Kawakubo "wants to create a market where various creators from various fields gather together  and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos:  the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who share a strong personal vision". The DSML window is by Comme Des Garçons (CDG) featuring Foamboy Monsters by artist Nick Pullest. One cannot expect those odd jumpers to be produced, to be as much attractive as the diffusion line goods. The CDG pieces have such attractiveness that one cannot expect. Considering the innovative marketing spirit of the house, it is not so surprising but it's definitely exciting. Those AW14 monstrous giant jumpers will reach one's appeal as those eccentric chelsea boots from the SS15 CDG Homme Plus collection. These shoes have already reached someone's heart, waiting for the next Tachiagari season to arrive!







Pics via Dazed Digital
Thanks to Rei Kawakubo every CDG collection is a Moment in time. Being such a big follower of the house, we were really excited about her SS15 Homme Plus collection. This collection has more than ever a personal message echoing with the tensed situation around the world. She delivers a message of peace carried out by her soldiers of love. There is always an obscure manifesto behind her collections, but this time, it was a clear message displayed on the suits. She has gone on war since her debut breakout Paris collection in  the 80's with her iconic Hiroshima Chic.
She presented a disrupted and disturbed wardrobe of military-insprired English schoolboy suits with rockabilly wigs paired with exaggerated chelsea boots. Nothing was conventional or classic. There was a lot of diversions from a classic military suit, an English schooboy uniform or from an Edwardian tailcoat for eveningwear. She purposely mixes different references from the menswear uniform, deconstructing the stereotypes of classic beauty to create an extravagant new silhouette. Her soldiers are questioning the relevance of  the uniform as she pushes the limits of menswear with her radical collection. There are odd propositions for the position of the pockets, the mixing of colours, the layering of fabrics, the proportions and shapes of pieces. She plays with this idea of the uniform, experiencing the limits of menswear basics such as a trench coat, suits or the function of camouflage. We love the  idea of a dungaree pinstripe, of a honeycombed trench coat or of every cut out and see-through pieces that one can identify as a classic Comme Des Garçons signature.
This SS15 collection is a pastiche of a classic military-inspired collection. Kawakubo's soldiers are like rebels with a peaceful cause. Their monstrous shoes have no power to kill and their awkward outfits have no camouflage efficiency. Their only mission is to send love.

After the Poor King, the Skull of Life, Kawakubo's soldiers of peace question the limits of men wearing uniform. More than a conception of beauty, there is a peaceful understatement behind this collection. She doesn't consider herself as an artist. Her collection looks like a crucial work of art embodying a heavy but quite simple message that could sometimes appear as outdated. MAKE LOVE NOT WAR! Is it ludicrous to say so? Maybe it is! Is it a losing battle? Perhaps. But someone has to make it clear!




Pics via Style.com


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