Men are now ready to pump up the volume when it comes to their wardrobes, they are ready to try on new things: unconventional cuts, new fabrics. Here, we are not only talking about those who are helplessly in love with Fashion but about a modern man who is not afraid to wear pieces that you could define as "unisex", promoted by all the most talked about brands (luxury brands as well as high street ones). "Femasculinity" is no longer a big frightening word and brands such as Givenchy, Prada or JW Anderson built their fame on this concept. There is nothing trendy here, it's not a gimmick but it is now a style by itself. In womenswear, this concept brought some well-known concepts such as "boyish" or "boyfriend jeans" so now, we are waiting for the same in menswear, for the terms "girlish" or "girlfriend jeans" for instance.
Maison Martin Margiela developed the concept of deconstruction, reconstruction or recycling of a man's/ woman's wardrobe. Fusion is at the core of their. Menswear SS15 collection. Fusion on every level: style, design and above all in the literal construction of the Femasculinity concept. This term can describe a lot of things but here, it is not enough to include such aspects as casual wear, sportswear or the sophisticated luxury of this collection. It has a saucy side but not in an aggressive way, it does not make us forget about all the other aspects. It is a certain idea of beauty that is not shocking or provocative but on the contrary, it is a complete wardrobe opening several perspectives and letting men choose many different options, different from the perpetual tailored suit. The silhouette is clean, definitely loose, sometimes belted with a very elaborate sporty vibe and a tailored element. Beauty here is made of bold & classic, aggressive & soft, sporty & tailored. A silk varsity jacket is paired with a suit, a leather jacket with tailored pants, a belted tranch-like jacket with evening tailored pants, loose karate pants mixed with a simple waistcoat. Those are the choices you can easily adapt in your casual way of life. Simple, brilliant ideas that will put your wardrobe upside down. The designers give opulence to looks composed of baggy parachute pants mixed with sheer embroidered trompe l'oeil tops giving an idea of a second skin. The least daring could choose to match these tops with a silky bronze pardessus over a beige suit. Here, we can well see the fusion of two completely different styles: couture & utility, high fashion & low profane. Two styles that rarely go hand in hand. The trompe l'oeil tops are even better than tattoos, they are like thousand dollar worth tattoos!
|Backstage pics by Harley Weir via dazed Digital|
This idea of recycling and fusion also appear in the mixing of tailored and sportswear. Some pants are composed of a tailored side and a fleece short side or a leg made of denim. MMM designers clearly refer to the Do It Yourself technique of the Punk Movement with this kind of patchwork made of very different fabrics that eventually work well together. This is clearly a signature of Martin Margiela. This reference also shows through the choice of the models that seem to be street-cast and in the choice of the setting (a kind of industrial site). All these mixings of strong & soft, raw & low contribute to the sexy/saucy side of this collection. We are ready to buy the embroidered couture tops with the pardessus and the fusion pants, we are ready to wear the waistcoats with the parachute baggy pants and we are sure we won't be the only ones to yield. So let's get saucy in Martin Margiela!
|Runway Pics via Style.com|