The tense situation in which the world is in has always inspired the designers who make conceptual fashion. The Anti-Fashion as they were called in the 90s, are those who move us again with their radical collections. But we cannot consider these collections as politically meaningful collections but they are more an observation of today's state of the world. The past seasons at Comme des Garçons are the ones with the most creativity, boldness, uniqueness and excessivity. Rei Kawakubo and her team are always trying to propose things that have never been done regarding the cuts, layerings, shapes, ideas leaving us completely speechless and astounded.
For Spring Summer 2015, the Comme des Garçons woman will only be clad in red. After the White Drama of SS12 which was already a highest level in creation, now it's time for a Red Drama. Red is according to us the most visually shocking colour. Backstage, the Japanese designer (and Legend) defined to Style.com that it was the colours of "roses and blood". With these two small words, several interpretations are possible and we can associate it to the tormented world, to Passion, to Sex, to Love, to Violence. It's also a certain idea of beauty hiding an inner strength and threat: a red rose is always beautiful but we always have to bear in mind that it has sharp thorns. For Rei Kawakubo, there is always something underneath. We never have to take for granted what we see or read (this complexity can also be found in the name of the brand itself: Comme des Garçons). There is always a play on the limits, the borderline: here we are clearly on the limits of ready to wear. Once again, it's a way to show us how deceptive things can be. 
What is sure is that Rei Kawakubo always has things to tell, her point of view is always renewed (contrary to many designers...) and she never ceases to make our eyes travel.

Pic by Susie Bubble for Dazed



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1/ The Collection: Red Drama @CommeDesGarçons

Pic by Susie Bubble for Dazed

2/ The One To Watch: Jonathan Anderson @Loewe

3/ The Standout Look: Net Dress @Balenciaga

Pic by Justine Delplanque for Dazed

4/ The Unexpected Finale: Déjeuner sur L'herbe @DriesVanNoten

5/ The Viral Moment: Radical & Futuristic Beauties @JunyaWatanabe

Pic via Style.com

6/ The Story: 18th century meets 22th century @Dior

7/ The Print: Parasol Stripes @Jacquemus

Pic by Lea Colombo for Dazed

8/ The Surrealist Details: Fusion concept @MaisonMartinMargiela

9/ The MustHave: The Moor's Gaze Dress @Chalayan

Pic by Jacques Habbah for Dazed
10/ The Manifesto: Sexual Healing @AcneStudios

Pic by Nigel Pacquette for Dazed

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"What is modern?" is the starting point of the Spring Summer 2015 collection of Dior by Raf Simons. "It was an idea of confronting what people now think is an aesthetic that is modern - it felt more modern to go to the far past, not the 'modernized' look of the last decade", said the designer in an interview to British Vogue. We agree with his interpretation of modernity. To be modern is to know every little thing about the past to understand and anticipate the future. To know everything is to take account of the good and bad to dare build something interesting and something that has a new vibe. The Fall 2015 Couture collection was an introduction to Spring 2015, being a research cabinet to explore new ideas from the past like bringing back crinolines, frock-coats and tail-coats which could seem outdated but Simons turns them into ready-to-wear pieces. He goes against what people would have expected him to do, bearing in mind his own brand which is dedicated to push the limits of menswear. But at Dior it is a totally different story that has nothing to do with his role at the head of his eponymous brand.

The Spring 2015 collection is made of bits of the past and bots of the future with pomp and quite circumstance in the newly venue of the show under the mirror box cube reflecting La Cour Carrée of Le Louvre in the ancient heart of Paris. People can now forget the street culture or sneaker culture vibe (neo-stilettos, sporty fabric like nylon, bomber dress-jacket, evening dress-tees) of the previous ready-to-wear collection because it's high time to look to the past in search of the New Look. A sporty black tank paired with a white embroidered crinoline, a wide printed shirt-dress and its sheer sleeve arm or an oversize bomber jacket with sleek black cigarette pants are illustrations of the new Dior woman wardrobe. The frock coats paired with shorts are clearly the signature silhouettes of this collection, We believe it's Simons new bar jacket and one of the numerous legacies to Dior since he's been appointed. Even if couture and ready-to-wear do not share the same customers, perhaps this collection will make these two worlds meet and who knows, even bring some new customers. The future will tell!

Pics by Alessandro Garofalo via Style.com



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Paris is the Roll's Royce of Fashion Week with all the biggest fashion houses presenting their collections, this is where things are really serious! The Fashion Week to rule them All in a way! Yet, one of the first designers to present his collection, on the first day, is Simon Porte Jacquemus, the Rising Star, the Made In France boy (there's not so many French designers presenting in Paris so it's worth specifying it) whose name is on everybody's lips. His place in the Fashion Week schedule can seem unexpected because as he is used to saying he is a provincial boy coming to Paris just for business. He brings a totally fresh, spontaneous, not concocted dialogue with Fashion. As he defines himself on his Instagram Account, he loves "blue, white, stripes, sun, fruit, Marseilles and the 80s", no need to look for convoluted and cerebral references you can sometimes see in some designers' bio, he has a clear, simple message that always goes straight to the point. Each of his collections has a specific name and just like in a movie, it tells a story about a feminine character, not a woman, a girl. 

This time for SS15, Jacquemus tells us a very personal story about Marseille (the city where he grew up and spent numerous summers enjoying the sun on its beautiful beaches) and his family background (his father is a gardener selling his products on markets). It is about real characters (the greengrocer, the fishmonger, the florist...) that are landmarks in his childhood, teenage years and even nowadays. With a certain dose of boldness, he pays a tribute to these artisans in the form of logos symbolizing these jobs embroidered on his clothes (a flower, a carrot, a fish...). It's not a gimmick but one of the strong signatures of this collection. It's not something made on purpose to excite fashionistas but something that is a genuine part of his story. Just like the white colour at the beginning of his show, it's more than a mere reference to minimalism (nowadays, minimalism is not that relevant) or to a certain kind of uniform, he has to put white into his collection under different forms and in an "updated"version: a white shirt dress, a one-sleeved crop top all paired with striped swimsuits one can guess underneath. The stripes are clear references to the parasols families bring to the beach in Summer (yellow, red, blue, pink associated with white) and they were also an integral part of the setting.

Backstage Pics by Lea Colombo for Dazed
These large stripes (also one of his signatures he has re-worked for SS15) were clearly a bold statement you can find in 3D effect or in surrealist shapes. They have in a way the same effect than the polka dots of Rei Kawakubo or Yayoi Kusama, something that is really coming from the bottom of his heart. He loves to play on the shapes to create the silhouette of a girl with no inhibitions, it's a feel-good collection putting a smile on our faces. We love the 3D pockets on his clothes (another of his trademarks) embellishing the clothes, the references to childhood: the stripes also remind us of the colour of the large & round lollipops we used to buy as kids. When a designer (we could even qualify Jacquemus as an artisan) succeeds in creating such a world of its own, taking everyone into it and delivering such a universal, touching and sincere message, it is not a risk to qualify his work as a success and as bloggers, it's undeniably a pleasure to write about it! We've read somewhere that perhaps he will soon launch a menswear line, we cannot wait to see how he will translate this unique language into men's clothes but we're sure that once again, he will go straight to our hearts!



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