Paris is the Roll's Royce of Fashion Week with all the biggest fashion houses presenting their collections, this is where things are really serious! The Fashion Week to rule them All in a way! Yet, one of the first designers to present his collection, on the first day, is Simon Porte Jacquemus, the Rising Star, the Made In France boy (there's not so many French designers presenting in Paris so it's worth specifying it) whose name is on everybody's lips. His place in the Fashion Week schedule can seem unexpected because as he is used to saying he is a provincial boy coming to Paris just for business. He brings a totally fresh, spontaneous, not concocted dialogue with Fashion. As he defines himself on his Instagram Account, he loves "blue, white, stripes, sun, fruit, Marseilles and the 80s", no need to look for convoluted and cerebral references you can sometimes see in some designers' bio, he has a clear, simple message that always goes straight to the point. Each of his collections has a specific name and just like in a movie, it tells a story about a feminine character, not a woman, a girl.
This time for SS15, Jacquemus tells us a very personal story about Marseille (the city where he grew up and spent numerous summers enjoying the sun on its beautiful beaches) and his family background (his father is a gardener selling his products on markets). It is about real characters (the greengrocer, the fishmonger, the florist...) that are landmarks in his childhood, teenage years and even nowadays. With a certain dose of boldness, he pays a tribute to these artisans in the form of logos symbolizing these jobs embroidered on his clothes (a flower, a carrot, a fish...). It's not a gimmick but one of the strong signatures of this collection. It's not something made on purpose to excite fashionistas but something that is a genuine part of his story. Just like the white colour at the beginning of his show, it's more than a mere reference to minimalism (nowadays, minimalism is not that relevant) or to a certain kind of uniform, he has to put white into his collection under different forms and in an "updated"version: a white shirt dress, a one-sleeved crop top all paired with striped swimsuits one can guess underneath. The stripes are clear references to the parasols families bring to the beach in Summer (yellow, red, blue, pink associated with white) and they were also an integral part of the setting.
|Backstage Pics by Lea Colombo for Dazed|
These large stripes (also one of his signatures he has re-worked for SS15) were clearly a bold statement you can find in 3D effect or in surrealist shapes. They have in a way the same effect than the polka dots of Rei Kawakubo or Yayoi Kusama, something that is really coming from the bottom of his heart. He loves to play on the shapes to create the silhouette of a girl with no inhibitions, it's a feel-good collection putting a smile on our faces. We love the 3D pockets on his clothes (another of his trademarks) embellishing the clothes, the references to childhood: the stripes also remind us of the colour of the large & round lollipops we used to buy as kids. When a designer (we could even qualify Jacquemus as an artisan) succeeds in creating such a world of its own, taking everyone into it and delivering such a universal, touching and sincere message, it is not a risk to qualify his work as a success and as bloggers, it's undeniably a pleasure to write about it! We've read somewhere that perhaps he will soon launch a menswear line, we cannot wait to see how he will translate this unique language into men's clothes but we're sure that once again, he will go straight to our hearts!