The Milan Fashion Week is almost over and in a few hours, the Fashionistas' eyes will be directed toward the City of Lights, Paris with its huge, endless and mind-blowing schedule. Too many beautiful collections, too many things to say, too many looks to instagram, comment, like and regram. According to us, that's not the case in Milan. Of course, there are some good shows, some very good ones, some unforgettable and essential ones to imagine the future of fashion but in general, Milan is not the most excited city of fashion. It lacks the young and free spirits of New York (Alexander Wang, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler...), the boiling creativity of London (Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Peter Pilotto...) and the Parisian legends (Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton...). Milan stands apart. Of course, there is creativity, youth and legends but it's not the same. The whole is diluted in a sea of tasteless collections, repetitive schemes and much ado about nothing labels.
Prada was Prada-esque. A spectacular show full of unspectacular clothes. The power of Miuccia. Making us want, need, desire things we had never thought of. And Gemma Ward opening. And Lara Stone closing. For sure, one of the moments of this season!
Jil Sander, under the direction of Rodolfo Paglialunga, is experiencing a brand new start faithful to its roots but certainly promising. A new idea of the tomboy figure, a collection full of attitude and desirable looks. We can't wait to see what's next.
Versace also knew a fresh and discrete makeover. No long and bodycon dresses here. After all, that's what Atelier Versace is made for. But a urban, colourful, somehow Pop wardrobe for a modern woman/girl who is never afraid of looking sexy. Good job Donatella!
Fendi, once again, proposed an innovative, inventive, witty and stunning collection full of killer looks. Easy chic. Great bags and silhouettes to die for. And Cara opening. (Is it still a surprise?)
In Milan, there are also some brands that count because they imagine playful collections full animated by a young and lively spirit: MSGM or Iceberg.
And there are the others... The brands ending in -ucci who season after season imagine collections stuck in the 70s. The tacky labels who are pale imitations of Versace. The leather-specialized houses that are always offering smart and uncluttered collections (and then?). And Dolce & Gabbana, always beautiful but no new ideas/cuts/silhouettes for ages. And Moschino... But we don't feel like using the keys of our keyboard to write about this 1st class farce. Ok Fashion should be fun and playful (we're the first advocates of this idea) but it should not be stupid and take people for dummies.
One brand is missing here. Our coup de coeur of this #MFW, the show that mesmerized us and that satisfied our need for prints and amazing shapes: Marni. This season, the label founded by Consuelo Castiglioni is celebrating its 20th anniversary and for this occasion, the designer imagined a collection full of different yet coherent references: flowers, Japan, monastic life, sportswear along with tribal vibes (felt mostly in the accessories). The collection starts with a soft, monotonous palette: organic and pure colours (variations of white, beige, grey, black) but impressive shapes reminding us at the same time of the monks' garments (emphasized by the flat and simple sandals) and traditional Japanese clothes such as kimonos. The silhouettes are belted with large and long judo belts, the clothes are full of lightness and volumes. It's in the size of a sleeve, in the use of extra fabric on the side of a dress or a top, in the transparency of some parts of the body (most of the time the arms) in a covered up silhouette. The Marni woman does not consider Spring Summer as the seasons where she can undress, wear mini clothes and offer her skin to the threatening sunbeams. To celebrate Summer she wears colours and expresses her love for flowers. In that sense, the second part of the show is a true Hanami, an explosion of colours, of large flower prints and a styling knowing no equivalent. The silhouettes are the same as the first ones but are so vivid and vibrant. The sandals are bigger (almost sneakers), the judo belts give way to smaller chord ties (perfect for complex drapings) or large leather leaf-shaped belts, 3-D flowers are embroidered on the clothes and fur-like fabrics & leather make their appearance. Consuelo is not afraid by the clash of prints, colours and fabrics, there is a constant play between bright and matt, hard and soft, metallic and soft, sporty and chic (the Marni DNA). Once again, the silhouettes are polished, a Summer dress is never simple at Marni and is styled with a coat or shiny bomber jackets. The last looks can be more considered as eveningwear, the pure and neutral colours are back and there is a profusion of embroideries, ruffles and metallic appliqués. But nothing too showy here. The sleeves are still oversized and the most prominent colour is white. Low profile but maxi effect!
With this anniversary collection, Consuelo Castiglioni captured the spirit of Japan and this particular moment when flowers are blooming. Japan is a recurring theme in the designer's work but here, there are new shapes and interesting propositions. Watching these clothes is like strolling in Meguro-gawa and experiencing a quiet but energizing trip. And that's exactly what we needed to end this Milan Fashion Week on the most positive note!
|Backstage Pics by Lea Colombo for Dazed|