07/09/2014

THE ROOM IS ON FIRE


After the breakout debut collections of Vfiles there is actually no big event and no name to bear in mind. The following days and runways are made of  the poorest collections, delivering same ideas one after another  and trying to keep their business afloat. We are not purposely bitchy only realistic! The Big Apple fashion week is full of boredom. It is the week of the nothingness, wondering why some have to present something only to show something. "What's the point  I mean?" (posh accent) There's too many brands producing predictable clothes which have already expired. It's not an overstatement. The lack of creativity of New-York is alarming and some people even suggest to skip and go directly to London, Milan and of course Paris. Some also stand that there are no longer exciting brands out there. The only reason why people are still flying to New-York is because of Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs & MBMJ, Rodarte, and Opening Ceremony. No offence to the brands not featured in the list below, but that's true. The demand for newness is the fuel of the business and some are not prepared to play the game of fast high fashion. If you are not a Nicolas, a Christopher, a Karl, a Miuccia or a Jonathan why do you inflict yourself so much trouble? Perhaps, a one season break would be the best way to avoid ending the way some designers ended a few years ago...Take for instance, the master Alaïa who thanks God for having one good idea per year! At least, he always has something to say, something that doesn't compromise his style, his creativity and his freedom of expression.

This is another busy year for Alexander Wang who is in charge of collections for the Parisian chic house Balenciaga, his own business and for the Swedish high street brand H&M. Wang doesn't consider his multiple role as a burden as he ran smiling to take his bow yesterday. He didn't look afraid or stressed out, but instead one could read the satisfaction on his face. He definitely knows the direction he wants his brand to take and who is his new girl. He doesn't look to the past as he's embracing the future with self-confidence. One could read this attitude as the first model opened the runway wearing a sleek black and white dress-suit belted with a large bar code, one of the references for his Spring 2015. This collection carries on his dialogue with sport and luxury as another inspiration he mentioned is the Sneakers Culture which is here the main reference. Literally every silhouette is the illustration of a pair of sneakers that are recycled, deconstructed and re-created . Every streetwise girl can recognize herself in this collection.  It depends if she fancies neon bright colors (clearly referring to the Nike Flying Knit), white and green perforated leathers (reminding you of the iconic Stan Smith), sharp tailoring and bold mix such as meshing leather and silk. Like the jumping street-core soundtrack, these explosive combinations also embody motocross vibes and tribal aesthetics. A leather and mesh cropped top is paired with tailored trousers and looks like a roaring engine. A sexy printed bow top, a complex woven draped skater dress and a silky printed varsity jacket make future rhythms with tradition. Above the sophisticated side, the boldness and the uniqueness of this collection, it is the sexiness that prevails. Wang puts the room on fire, makes the temperature rising with all these body-conscious dresses, the transparencies, the bare-shoulders  and the legs revealed. One could read Strong! Wild! Powerful!Savage!Beast! on the mood board of his Fall 2009 from a #throwbackthurday post on his Instagram, Those words are still relevant to define his Spring 2015 girl.














Pics by Lea Colombo via Dazed Digital



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