17/09/2014

TRUE ROMANCE

The London Fashion Week [#LFW] Spring Summer 2015 is over but  its shows are still in our heads & hearts. That's the charm of London. It's not the city of love but people can't keep on falling in love with all these womenswear collections. It's only six days of presentations but those are for sure the most exciting! 

Gif via DazedDigital
We had to wait until the last days of festivities to see Simone Rocha's work. The Pearly Queen delivered as always a personal presentation in a church of Holborn. A sacred place to bring up her obsessions such as Hong Kong, Pina Bausch as much as youth, fragility and love. Despite the dark opening looks, the collection finds a perfect balance between low and high emotions, joy and despair, light and dark, up and down, hope and disappointment. Rocha's collection is like a romantic poem full of contradictions. A brocade dress and a belted trench coat paired with furry hem trousers all in black that go against the same uniforms made of nude sheer fabric. Rocha opts for the same perspective when it comes to the black and the white knitted mad flowers embroidered on the sheer dresses. Then, the collection takes a dramatic scale embodied in the blooming red garments and its matching flowers appliqué. The sheer veils adds a lot of excess epitomizing the idea of  kept-beauty and purity of a fleeting age. Rocha pushes the idea of restrained beauty to its limits as a part of the body is clearly exposed behind the sheer galore. It's not just a white drama but also sheer, brocade and mad flowers. The strength of this collection comes from the mix of all these textures. A sheer nude trench is embellished with a scalloped brocade edge as much as a ballerina dress. There's no simple use of brocade or sheer to built a garment. All the stunning uniforms at the beginning of the collection have been revisited to become  the pure and exquisite versions of true romance.










Backstage pic by Piczo via I-D Online




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