"What is modern?" is the starting point of the Spring Summer 2015 collection of Dior by Raf Simons. "It was an idea of confronting what people now think is an aesthetic that is modern - it felt more modern to go to the far past, not the 'modernized' look of the last decade", said the designer in an interview to British Vogue. We agree with his interpretation of modernity. To be modern is to know every little thing about the past to understand and anticipate the future. To know everything is to take account of the good and bad to dare build something interesting and something that has a new vibe. The Fall 2015 Couture collection was an introduction to Spring 2015, being a research cabinet to explore new ideas from the past like bringing back crinolines, frock-coats and tail-coats which could seem outdated but Simons turns them into ready-to-wear pieces. He goes against what people would have expected him to do, bearing in mind his own brand which is dedicated to push the limits of menswear. But at Dior it is a totally different story that has nothing to do with his role at the head of his eponymous brand.
The Spring 2015 collection is made of bits of the past and bots of the future with pomp and quite circumstance in the newly venue of the show under the mirror box cube reflecting La Cour Carrée of Le Louvre in the ancient heart of Paris. People can now forget the street culture or sneaker culture vibe (neo-stilettos, sporty fabric like nylon, bomber dress-jacket, evening dress-tees) of the previous ready-to-wear collection because it's high time to look to the past in search of the New Look. A sporty black tank paired with a white embroidered crinoline, a wide printed shirt-dress and its sheer sleeve arm or an oversize bomber jacket with sleek black cigarette pants are illustrations of the new Dior woman wardrobe. The frock coats paired with shorts are clearly the signature silhouettes of this collection, We believe it's Simons new bar jacket and one of the numerous legacies to Dior since he's been appointed. Even if couture and ready-to-wear do not share the same customers, perhaps this collection will make these two worlds meet and who knows, even bring some new customers. The future will tell!
|Pics by Alessandro Garofalo via Style.com|