03/10/2014

GET UP! STAND UP FOR YOUR RIGHTS!

In France, it's a euphemism to say that we love to rise against the authority to fight for our rights. Almost a national sport when it comes to defend our freedom, equality and fraternity (not quite sure about this last one these days). From workers to lawyers, from teachers to pilots, from chemists to pensioners, there is always a good and valid reason to go and roam the streets to yell our discontent and need for more equal treatment. That's a fact and people from other countries may find it hard to understand this behaviour that is almost written in our DNA. Of course, it knows limits. Sometimes, people demonstrate for reasons that may seem unjustified or even liberty killer. We're not here to make a statement about the social or political state of France but people fighting against equality regarding marriage or adoption, it will always be something impossible for us to understand. Anyway, that's how French people are and nothing will change this (fortunately or unfortunately...).

The latest Chanel show was all about that. After all, if there is one person who can catch more than un air du temps but a common knowledge about how French people act and are it is Karl Lagerfeld. After all, he has been living in France for such a long time and even if, he considers himself as a citizen of the world, he can't help putting a little French spirit into his collections. We can remember the Couture collection of Spring 2013 when Ashleigh Good & Kati Nescher appeared hand in hand along with a little boy while at that time, in France, the question of same sex marriage was forcefully and violently debated in Parliament. On a more general point of view, Kaiser Karl loves to depict the rights and wrongs of nowadays society. Caution: we're not saying that he always has the right vision or always talks about things he experienced himself. When he criticized the greedy and relentless consumption society in his AW14 Ready To Wear collection, it was an observation but not something he actually witnessed in a mall on a Saturday afternoon. And stop us if we're wrong but it seems that Chanel is part of that gigantic and endless circus that makes us want always MORE, MORE, MORE. But despite these facts, Karl Chanel Lagerfeld is often right on the mark. 

Pic by Harry Carr via I-D
This time, the girls on the runway or, as it was called, on the Boulevard Chanel, were fighting for their rights as women as if modern and fantasized versions of Simone de Beauvoir or Gertrude Stein were protesting to say loud and clear that they must be considered as equals and not as cheaper versions of their male counterparts. Such mottos as "Je ne suis Pas en Soldes" [I am Not on Sale] or "We can Match the Machos" were all about that. Of course, we are at a Fashion show and above all, we are at a Chanel show so this feminist subtext is toned down by glamour and clothes (and Gisele Bündchen!) with such placards saying "Tweed is Better than Tweet", "le Jeans est Androgyne" [Jeans are Androgynous] or "Make Fashion Not War". The ultimate goal is to sell clothes so you'd better not frighten customers with too political or serious anthems!



Pics by Harry Carr via I-D
If we take a closer look at the collection itself, once again, we're here to look at clothes, Karl Lagerfeld offers several versions of a girl'woman's wardrobe. Actually, several wardrobes to please everybody and to back his desire to say that a woman is much more than just a man with boobs and feelings. A woman can wake up in the morning willing to dress like a working girl then in the afternoon she wants to feel comfortable in a cardigan/dress (once again, in a fantasized version of a woman who would have time to change her outfit in the afternoon) then feeling like a tomboy for the cocktail hour and ending in sequins to party all night! If only life can be this exciting! Unfortunately, we are not all Anna Dello Russo...

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11 p.m  [pics via Style.com]
In this SS15 collection, there is everything a girl can want/need/love/desire. Pants, skirts, shorts, dresses, sheer fabrics, tweed (we are at Chanel never forget it!), black & white, explosion of colours (on shirts, scarves, boots, pants, skirts, on the lining of a coat), neo-polka dots, gold lamé, khaki (for the necessary military section), sequins and more! This highly desirable collection is always worn with flat shoes because a woman is still a woman even if she is not wearing killer vamp heels and it's a direct reference to Gabrielle Chanel who loved dressing up as a tomboy!

Pic by Lea Colombo for Dazed
Among all the mottos chanted by the models at the end of the show, one particularly caught our attention because it quite sums up our state of mind when it comes to fashion: "Be Your Own Stylist". Only for that we love this Chanel collection because this is exactly what people should do in their everyday life! Wearing the clothes they want without any inhibitions or thoughts of what people may think and say. We Do Not Care! Life is way too short to be that kind of sad little person. I have to admit that sometimes I feel it hard to overcome this fear and this pressure to just be myself with the clothes I love even if they are too colourful, too oversized or simply too unusual. This is Fashion! It won't change the face of the world, it won't fight starvation, wars or epidemics but it can change the face of your everyday life and consequently, the life of the persons around you. Maybe I'm too much of a utopian but a little utopy has never killed anybody! So ladies, guys, everybody, if you want to dress like a McQueen Geisha, a Givenchy Boho Warrior, a Valentino Greek Goddess, an Astrid Andersen Sumotori or a Miu Miu Kick Ass Girl, if you want to feel like a Saint Laurent Rocker, an Alexander Wang Too Cool For School Girl, a trashy Meadham Kirchoff boy/girl or a Céline neo-Bourgeoise, just go for it and stand up for your rights!

Pic via Tumblr





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