31/01/2014

FUR FANTASY


Kopenhagen Fur opened Copenhagen Fashion Week, proving that fur is the number 1 luxury good in the whole world. "Kopenhagen Fur is the world 's largest fur skin auction house and the centre of the international fur trade. Kopenhagen Fur's label programme and its label guarantee the best fur products on the market providing consumers with the ultimate labelling system." Their runway is an illustration of their collaborations with young designers, luxury houses and researchers from all around the world. Fur is unique as a fabric, but it has to be deconstructed, re-invented and updated a just like any other materials. There's a part of triviality in fur in a sense of its use, so it has to be modernised, re-worked as if it were the first time. All the brands are challenging their design team to give a new approach to fur, breaking the cliché or the idea of the classic fur coat, imaging women being a kind of Cruella DeVill. Prada, Fendi or Astrid Andersen are all embracing the idea of fur fantasy which is fur 2.0. Clearly fur should no longer be considered as something exquisite, even it will always be, but something trivial, fun, non-boring, considered as being profane, cool and young. We have in mind Prada trompe l'oeil coats, Fendi monster goodies and Iroquois headpieces, Celine "Daisy Duck" shoes and sporty sandals, Astrid Andersen basketball vest, Rick Owens boxing gloves or Yohji Yamamoto boxy culottes and there are undoubtedly many more unexpected ways and details we have forgotten to mention. 


Rick Owens SS12 (pic via Dazed Digital)
Grace Jones In Fendi (Pic via Dazed Digital)
Prada SS14 (Pic via Dazed Digital)

Céline SS13 (Pic via Style.com)
Balenciaga AW13 (Pic via Dazed Digital)
During Kopenhagen Fur young designers such as Freja Dalsjo played with fur as if it were a pattern on pieces of fabric. Fur from different animals is sewing together  giving  standout graphic impact to a cocoon coat. In the same idea there were fur embellishments on shoes and also on the coats, giving texture and sophistication. It is a new approach to luxury goods which  is more relaxed and easy to wear, wondering at first sight if it's really fur or a colourful coat. There was a certain eccentricity on these furry shoes, always unexpected and by no means pretentious or showy. Perhaps Freja Dalsjo stands for a more straighforward idea of luxury, having Phoebe Philo's work in mind. Her collection stands out proving that fur is nothing but a piece of fabric.


All these pictures come from the Copenhagen Fashion Week website.

30/01/2014

RADICAL, AGGRESSIVE, BRUTAL

Radical, agressive, and brutal are the words that come through our minds after watching Anne Sofie Madsen AW14 collection at Mercedes Benz Copenhagen fashion week. Putting a high level of creation does not guarantee all the runway pieces to be produced, hence her choice to keep going her aesthetic in "easy to wear" pieces. She is at a turning point in her design, adapting her couture runway at a more ready to wear and commercial scale, including now a menswear version, only three looks but it has already won our hearts. Every designer always worries about the commercial aspect of their collection, but the creation has to be boundless. Anne Sofie Madsen is only expressing without limits what she has inside herself. The S&M leather and the couture sheer dresses, the embellished chain tops, the eyelets cut in the pants, all are part of her language whose obvious references come from the street, youth and punk.


Asger Juel Larsen simply posted a teaser of his AW14 collection called Arctic Suburb Manual (quite obscur at first sight), purposely to bring the noise, a pleasure for our eyes and also for the buyers. The fashion film starring the it boy Sylvester Ulv, puts the focus on glossy jackets, coats and slouchy metallic pants, increasing our excitement. That's what we like about Asger Juel larsen, the reference is always diverse and rich so expect the unexpected.
Asger Juel Larsen presents his AW14 bold "uniform" featuring  prints made of several patterns such as a dismembered horror doll, a neo inked camo and an arctic landscape, which are as strong as the monochromatic looks in black and white. We can't take our eyes off all the coats and jackets that are very daring like the boxy glossy bomber jacket. Asger Juel Larsen's jackets are always on the top of our wishlist, especially the one from the Madhouse diffusion line. Hope the design team are going to translate this glossy one into the diffusion line.

ASGER JUEL LARSEN AUTUMN / WINTER 2014 TEASER from ASGER JUEL LARSEN on Vimeo.




All these pictures com from Copenhagen fashion week website.


29/01/2014

GUNS OF BRIXTON




ZARA Biker Jacket
& OTHER STORIES Sweater
ZARA Neoprene Blazer
CHEAP MONDAY Second Skin Jeans
SOLOVAR Brogues
UNIQLO Socks

28/01/2014

STREET TAILORING

"Street tailoring" is how Juun.J defines his own label, a mix of youth and street culture, a modern approach to menswear, challenging tailoring season after season. It is also a hint of classicism and avant garde, or like he said "diversion of classic", definitely the label we always expect a lot from among others during Paris Fashion Week. Juun.J certainly owns the cut, by deconstructing conventional shapes into his street tailoring. Having learnt the basis of tailoring at Esmod Seoul, giving him the skills to design without limits. The lack of boundaries is obviously the only way to bring new ideas in menswear where there is a lot to do, comparing to womenswear.
Juun.J is part of the fashion landscape, a style that is very recognizable as the label has made its mark, and now producing ad campaigns since two seasons that put forward the genderless attitude of the label, even if it hasn't been a deliberate choice, but a stand out that says a lot about Juun.J's uniqueness. JJ's inspiration comes from the streets, that is probably the explanation of the label aesthetic.
The question of proportions has always been the likes of Juun.J, redefining a piece from a classic menswear wardrobe which becomes the statement of the season such as the dramatic AW10 tartan capes, the minimalist SS10 sheer hoodies, the colour block SS12 k-ways, the neo SS13 pinstripe suits, the sci-fi AW13 neoprene sweaters, the sporty SS14 Sheer tees and the AW14 printed leather parkas.





The AW14 collection got some references from the SS14 collection such as the pinstripe, but the sporty attitude is somehow lost, erased by the predominance of leather, giving a sophisticated strength and hardness. Almost all the looks are made out of soft leather and all are very sexy and provocative like these "combi-pants" or the head to toe leather oufits. There are also serious oversized cuts in the coats, the woolen tops, the jackets and the shiny down-jackets. 








Actually, shape always comes first in Juun.J's work, as for the SS14 in which radical oversized tops (shirts, jackets and tees) are styled with micro high-waisted shorty shorts. Massive busts balancing with the skinny waist, revealing the sexiest part of the body which is of course the legs! The tops are very masculine, in opposition to the rest of the body that is rather feminine. Both AW14 and SS14 are new steps in Juun.J's creation, delivering a look that hasn't been done before. The South Korean designer will certainly go on challenging menswear and tailoring in the future, proposing bold shapes. We just have to wait for the next collection.







All the pictures come from the Juun.J website.

27/01/2014

HERO OF THE WEEK: KATE MOSS




Kate Moss or "la Katou" as an affectionate nickname we use when we talk about her, the most influential British woman in the world, like they say in UK, there's only two Kates: the princess and her. Kate is like a member of the Royal family for the British people, being as important as them and probably the best ambassador, illustrating what is britishness.
Kate is more than a supermodel, more than a woman, she is the absolute muse because every designer dreams to work with her, if they haven't. Kate and Alexander McQueen is like a love story that will go on forever. This particular collaboration is like McQueen's legacy, as if it has been written somewhere that Kate and the Couture RTW house will work together. No wonder McQueen chooses Kate to be the hero of their enigmatic SS14  film, the one to watch campaign that has created a buzz after several teasers. No more word, let's watch the video!





26/01/2014

POETRY







NEW LOOK Boyfriend Jacket
CHEAP MONDAY Red Denim Jacket
ACNE Sweater
CHEAP MONDAY Denim Shirt
CHEAP MONDAY Skinny Jeans
CHEAP MONDAY Necklace
ZARA Leather Boots

LINKS A LA MODE: THE WEEKLY ROUNDUP [01/23]


As an introduction to their weekly Links A La Mode, the Independent Fashion Bloggers speak about "breaking clichés" with the help of fashion, "saying no to the trends" to get your own style no matter what people may think (We Do Not Care is W.A.R.M.'s motto do not forget!). This is the goal of our post Sex Is Around The Corner that has been selected this week. So if you haven't read it yet this is the perfect moment and if you want to discover some very interesting blogs, the links to the other 19 contestants are just above!



Stepping Up the Style

The thing that keeps fashion interesting is that it's a never-ending project. But that doesn't mean we don't like to strive for perfection anyway. Whether it be following your favorite fashion icons, saying no to the trends, or breaking cliches, style can always be stepped up even when we simplify our wardrobes. This week we have a solid round up of style related posts, so be sure to check them all out!

Links à la Mode: January 23rd

25/01/2014

W.A.R.M TOP 10


1/ The Ad-Campaign: Jester White for Juun J SS14




2/ The Music Video: Disclosure feat. Mary J. Blige - F For You



3/ The Viral Picture: Katie Grand & Marc Jacobs wearing Prada


4/ The Conversation: Hubert de Givenchy & Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson for SHOWstudio



5/ The Magazine Cover: Miley Cyrus for LOVE Issue 11



6/ The Sound: CEO - Whorehouse



7/ The Lookbook: Tigran Avetisyan AW 14/15 [via Fucking Young!]


8/ The Fashion Film: Miu Miu SS14 by Inez & Vinoodh



9/ The Sreet Style: Shot by Tommy Ton for Style.com During PFW



10/ The Couture Show: Dior SS14