30/03/2014

FAST FOOD FAST FASHION

The time of logo, the revival of 90's branding going viral is already over. Brands have to find new strategies to be the one that will get everyone's attention, the one that will be the talk of the town, the one that will be the most recognizable in only one look on the runway. It is always a battle of influence but the seasonal presentations are no longer enough. Writing the brand's name in large letters is obviously boring. You can forget your logo-esque Kenzo, HBA, Carven and other branding sweaters that are no longer part of the modernity though we are not going to get rid of our Kenzo because they are timeless basics. The time is running out and it is the time of fast fashion now in which every piece you buy every year seems to be only consumed/worn for one season. We don't believe the hype as we are just describing a phenomenon that is literally translated in luxury goods. Of course, there will always be room on your shelves for logo sweaters but now you also have to make room for your fast fashion sweaters, bags or any other types of good.

Fast fashion branding is a diversion of worldwide consumption products. Pop Art artists such as Andy Warhol did the same to talk about people's obsession with consumption. Not sure if fast fashion wants to bring out a criticism about people's behaviour. It is just a wink and the brands are just playing with the idea of representation. There is nothing serious behind all these fast luxury goods as fast fashion and luxury don't work together. And no need to mention that obviously these products will cost you a thing!

Marc Jacobs (a compulsive art purchaser and a diet coke addict) created a cashmere Coca-Cola motif sweater which is a current obsession for us. On the runway, it was Georgia May Jagger who wore it with a floral guipure long skirt and it was a viral moment which produced an emotion as we were smiling. This sweater embodies at the same time profane, trivial and luxury as the t-shirt version of it cost 995$. There is no deep thinking of buying its "high street" version as the Topshop Pepsi Cola sweater was much more affordable.







Jeremy Scott X Moschino was the "too much exploration of fast fashion" embodying the "much ado about nothing" collection. This McDonalds and junk food collection was out of control and didn't make us smile, it was just stupid! Honestly, we love cooking homemade burgers, eating french fries but we really don't love the idea of wearing it. We acknowledge Jeremy Scott did create a thing for his first Moschino collection that people won't forget, but that's all. The collection was a pretentious pastiche of Moschino's trademarks with a heavy fast fashion touch.




Anya Hindmarch took consumption products  as a starting inspiration to deliver a sophisticated luxury goods collection. You get the Pop Art inspiration in term of colours and graphic propositions. She used the accessories as an advertising medium. We love the Kellogg's ad bags with the Frosties Tiger and the cock from Cornflakes. The laundry ad bags are also one of our favourites. Hindmarch succeeded in capturing some emotions from childhood. There is also a Peter Pan attitude saying "life is too short to be boring" embodied in these accessories. Hindmarch did fast fashion without being too literal as this collection mixed fashion, art and pop culture. That's probaly what we expect and want to see from fast fashion goods.






29/03/2014

LESS IS MORE





MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA X H&M Oversize Jacket
PETER PILOTTO X Printemps Sweater
TOPMAN Skinny Jeans
UNDERGROUND Apollo Creepers
SPITFIRE Sunglasses

28/03/2014

HERO OF THE WEEK: KELIS

Sweet, sexy and broken, all are the best adjectives to qualify Kelis's voice, her unique signature. She has made a long journey since her irreverant debut, from Kaleidoscope to Wanderland, two avant-garde albums that impressed us and shook up RnB. She's no longer the rebel girl from Harlem, but a woman who has always had the guts to do what she thinks is best for her carreer, taking the risks to make Flesh Tone which was far from her. It was like going off the beaten tracks, starting all over again. She is definitely afraid of nothing. This album was not a commercial success, but she proved to the world that she could do it. Her next album Food is a new adventure, working with the independent label Ninja Tune. She is going back to the 60's RnB roots with her two singles Jerk Ribs and Rumble, bringing her unique touch. This album will be available on April the 21st. It is all about Soul food so you can listen it to excess!



26/03/2014

LA PARISIENNE

Today, W.A.R.M. is publishing his 500th post! Wow! We can't believe it! We had to do something special to celebrate so here is a brand new Look of the Day featuring Laetitia, Yann's sister. For us, she is the incarnation of La Parisienne and in a way, what we want to convey with our blog: Free, Cool, Strong and Sexy!







ALL SAINTS Leather Biker Jacket
COS Top
ALL SAINTS Skinny Jeans
KENZO Flying Tiger Scarf
& OTHER STORIES Leather Bag
PERSOL Sunglasses
TOPSHOP Boots

25/03/2014

TWO BECOME ONE - PROENZA SCHOULER

One of our fave fashion duos and happy couple (they seem to be in love) Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are the boys (because they are young and talented) behind Proenza Schouler honoured by Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche in Paris in a retrospective on a large part of their ground floor and also in a pop up store selling limited goods designed for the occasion. Proenza and Schouler stands for the maiden names of McCollough's and Hernandez's mothers. Literally 2 that became 1 when they established their brand in 2002. They created new basics by pushing the boundaries and by editing new fabrics, textures and by creating handbags such as the iconic PS1 that definitely became a (new) classic. This exhibition points out their obsession with fabrics, textures and cratfsmanship from ancient savoir-faire that inspired them during trips around the world to digital and technological techniques of printing or cutting. Their collections often look like a sophisticated patchwork of many inspirations.




For their Spring Summer 12 presentation they called their "Tumblr collection", they started with complex sewing of different printed skins (python, alligator) together, then you had tribal woven leather jackets and skirts, lazer cutting lace, leather and silk patchwork dresses, 3D printed patchwork dresses embellished with eyelets, all embodying the random contents they got from Tumblr.









In their Autumn Winter 11, the Native American beauty got an architectural extravagant touch, taking another level far from the clichés. What is striking here with this collection is that their deconstructionist process of creation is always a tribute as you could see it if you read between the lines.








Their interpretation of Asia for Autumn Winter 12 is obviously one of our favourite collections: the Chinese like embroideries on a padded sweater, the red leather woven leather jackets and skirts, the gold, the peacock, the asymetric engraving like silky jacquard, the samouraï like padded blue jackets, all standing in front of us as we could almost touch them (and maybe we did). All these pieces captured an emblematic element from Asia without being too literal but represent more an avant-garde inspired Asian collection.

















The dramatic handpainting patterns from the Spring Summer 14 was also part of the exhibition and increased our excitement, because it is one of the showstopper silhouettes of the season. In this collection, you can also feel their love for natural elements, reflecting on the prints and also on the fringe jacket, the colours and a metallic liquid like bustier.











The Proenza Schouler boys look more like craftsmen than designers. Their addiction to ancient techniques as well as their passion for arts and technologies, their patchwork language and their uncompromising aesthetic, all these elements are essential and necessary to rework and reboot American luxury.