31/10/2014

FLAWLESS UNIFORMS

The initial reaction about a collection is what pushes us to write about it. No matter if it's a good or a bad one. We have to express our first impression because it's always the good one. A collection needs a great impact to get people to be passionate about it. At the beginning of the New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 we were wondering what we would think of the lastest Marc Jacobs collection. The AW14 was not what we expected him to do and we were not wowed by the first silhouettes on the catwalk. It was a great surprise but not in a good way. But, Jacobs made a point, he surprised us. The SS14 collection was one of our favorites so far: Victorian Age era meeting Tropical Malady meeting Coca-Cola meeting Gothic romantic. Not sure if it was a commercial success but he edited one of his greatest hit collections for us. Actually, Marc Jacobs collections have always produced a strong impact upon us. People could not have mixed emotions about what he creates. It is a game of love and hate which is the definition of passion. Our serious love affair with Jacobs was the subject of one of our very first posts for W.A.R.M. so we do not need to mention it again.

Once again, the Spring Summer 2015 will remain one of his greatest hits. We were enchanted to watch it live staying late not to miss a thing. The utilitarian trend is spreading like a pandemic disease but when Jacobs does it he pushes the trend futher and delivers something unique and personal. Rei Kawakubo imagined a utilitarian Soldiers of Peace collection for her Spring Summer 2015 Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus and it has surely produced something on Jacobs because he loves what she does (the models haircuts look like her's). We are sure that the main reference of this collection comes from Comme des Garçons. Other references are less obvious and quite mysterious like the giant pink house standing on his catwalk. We are still wondering if it was a joke because nothing has to be too serious with Marky Marc. We are not venturing on the hazardous explanation even if this piece of art makes us think of a metaphor for home/family in the land of plenty.

Pic by Lea Colombo via Dazed Digital

The collection revolves around the idea of uniforms and the re-interpretation of classic garments from menswear. The intention was not to drop another femasculinity. It was more about starting with this idea of mensweardisrupting it to produce a new femininity. The other point was to push creation further by doing something new. Jacobs focused on editing this season as if it were his first collection. The recycling and deconstruction process of the menswear wardrobe was the starting point then he gave it a new definition by re-thinking each piece of a woman's wardrobe like the concept of a dress, of a suit, a jacket, pants, a shirt, a skirt or of a sweater. There were several variations of dresses looking like a belted trench coat or like a military long coat or a belted t-shirt. The suits were composed of a belted military jacket paired with cargo trousers. One could not forget the boxy workwear vibe of  the shirts with the shorty-short skirts worn very high as much as the oversize sweater with big pockets. All these goods were embellished with big buttons, large pockets (where we're sure you could put your whole life into them!) and smaller ones. Another strong point of view was the models wearing flats embellished Birkenstock-like-sandals and not heels. This collection is quite too much. There were literally a lot of excess and exaggeration in the styling and in the proportions. But we love the eccentricity that brought Marc Jacobs season after season even if sometimes we are not completely seduced. Marc Jacobs is a showgirl! He cannot create without delivering high fashion. No matter how people will react to his current and past collections, he will keep on doing what he believes in. Jacobs knows he has to sell clothes and not pieces for museum, the commercial perspective of this collection is obvious. Business is important but it's his creativity that comes first. That's the main difference. Creativity is what makes people coming to the store to buy the clothes. The question of how wearable is the collection comes afterward.








Runway pics from Style.com




29/10/2014

HEAVY KNIT





& OTHER STORIES Jumper
CHEAP MONDAY Jeans
CHEAP MONDAY Bag
PIERRE HARDY Wallet
UNDERGROUNG Creepers


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W.A.R.M. WANTS

Our wardrobe is standing on itself. It is full of clothes and their weight helps it not to fall apart. It doesn't stop us from buying new stuff and from finding ways to make room for the new additions. We are not buying less but we are buying good pieces that will certainly last! Nowadays, people who buy clothes have to be aware of the quality, of the supply chain and by whom it has been produced. The esteem of a brand is no longer guaranteed by the respect of all the aims which matter above all. It's not a trend that Fashion has to respect environment, the people who make the clothes and the one who buy them. It has to be an equality and it's not a utopia anymore. It's now! 



Honest by Bruno Pieters goes hand in hand with this philosophy. "We believe that Fashion is about beauty and the story behind fashion can be equally beautiful. We want to give our customers the opportunity to shop with complete awareness of what they are buying. We want to produce all of our products in a life friendly way. We believe in the health of our clients skin. We want the impact of our products and activities on the environment and human health to be as small as possible." The project was created by Pieters, but the company also sells new collections from established and upcoming designers. They offer a whole range of investment pieces considering the work on raw materials that demand a lot of researches. Not all the established labels can give such transparency explaining the prices and the all process of production. It's about creating something that matters and that has a soul. Boxy and sharp shapes always have a serious impact on us. We love the play on proportions, the mix of fabrics and colors. We also like that the collection has this gender-less vibe. No need to edit a lot of pieces as Pieters focuses on the essentials: a coat, a suit, a dress, a pair of shorts, a skirt, a pair of pants and a bag. We want them all!






Pics From Honest By



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27/10/2014

LA BELLE DAME SANS MERCI

A few days ago, as I were wandering on the web taking a look at my favorite sites, a piece of news particularly caught my attention: the movie Splash starring Tom Hanks & Daryl Hannah is turning 30 this month. Isn't it crazy? Ok, not crazy in a "OMFG it's insane" way! But for sure it is crazy as with this kind of news, you can only acknowledge that time is fleeing fast. When I was a kid, Splash was one of my first memorable movie experiences. I loved this movie so much though Daryl Hannah's tail as a mermaid scared me a bit, don't know why.... Even if I haven't watched it for ages, I can remember the scene in the bathtub or her screaming so piercingly. I don't know if it would have the same effect on me now I am an adult. Sometimes, you have to leave things to the past to keep the magic and the good memories going.

Mermaids have always been fascinating characters to me. At school, I remember my teacher telling us about the dangerous mermaids in Homer's Odyssey singing beautiful songs to catch and kill sailors. So, these mythical characters could be either young and naive girls such as Ariel, the Little Mermaid and Madison, Daryl Hannah's character in Splash or lethal and pitiless women such as Gemma Ward in Pirates of the Caribbean. The perfect mix in fact because unlike witches who are only wicked and princesses who are nothing but beauties, mermaids have both so double opportunity to get what they want. I wonder how Sofia Coppola will depict Ariel in the new adaptation of the Little Mermaid. Will she be a girl who finds her life boring and who wants more fun? Or will she be a little bit of a danger? Time will tell but we can't wait to see the result. 

A Mermaid by John William Waterhouse (1900)

If you need any piece of evidence that mermaids are trendy now you have one with Sofia Coppola directing a Little Mermaid movie. Sofia Coppola is "trendy" and she has surely understood the incredible potential lying behind this mythological figure. Fashion did understand this fact for a while now as here and there references to mermaids and to the captivating underwater world appear on the runways. Sometimes, it is playful and somehow literal like in Bobby Abley's latest collection for Spring Summer 2015 where he presented clothes with characters from Disney's The Little Mermaid on them: the evil Ursula, Ariel or Sebastian, the lobster and at other times, it is made with more delicacy and insight, more like a way to go back to the traditional image of the mermaid when made by the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte.

As always with Rodarte, there is a genuine story behind this collection where you can find some "gimmicks" (here they have nothing to do with a lack of creativity but more with codes making the Rodarte DNA): a bit of fantasy tales (Star Wars for AW14/15, now mermaids), some vintage vibes along with incredible techniques in embroideries, embellishments and knitting. A perfect cocktail for clothes leaving in their wake a sense of magic and ethereal beauties. The Mermaid figure of the Mulleavy sisters is actualized and symbolizes a fascinating character living outside the real world. Someone living with his/her own codes and wearing clothes that won't be found on everyone. According to us, a modern-day version of the Punk figure in a way (this impression is reinforced with the numerous rings piercing the models' eyebrows).  


There is an impression of DIY (one of the trademarks of the Punk movement) with these clothes. Not at all in a negative way (badly executed, cheap or ill-fitted) but in the assemblage of different fabrics and materials to create a unique effect of clothes coming from another world (perhaps from the underwater kingdom of Atlantis?): silk, organza associated with sequined nets (fishnets?), ruffles and flowers. As if they had gathered multiple things they had found on a beach after a storm to create mesmerizing dresses: some seaweeds, some pearly shells, some torn sails coming from a shipwreck. On some dresses, you even have the impression that they took the foam out of the waves to embellish their garments!








The SS15 Rodarte girls are as fascinating & bewitching as they look strong & powerful with these high-boots, sunglasses and piercings. They are not just beautiful dolls wearing amazing, light and diaphanous clothes and that's what we love about Rodarte. There is always a sense of pure femininity in their collections but at the same time, there is always something more, a subtext saying "don't judge a book by its cover". Women are not simple and so is the Rodarte girl! You may wear the most feminine dress, you have the right to be a badass too! This impression is reinforced by the first part of the collection with the first looks: skinny pants, high boots with a complex lacing, large snap hooks belts, jumpers embellished by ruffles and worn over sheer tops. There are still very feminine elements (the sheer fabrics, the ruffles...) but they are counterbalanced by pieces reminiscent of the sailor figure or even of the pirate figure, the badass character by excellence! The incredible utilitarian jackets perfect for a sea trip strengthen this attitude. They are made of heavy materials (such as corduroy or leather), have large pockets and must be buttoned up to be sure to remain warm and dry but at the same time, they are embellished with the same elements as the ones you can find on the dresses: shell-like sequins or  delicate fishnets. Along with the dresses, these jackets are the outstanding pieces of the collection and will sure be in several fashionista's wishlists for next season.



Backstage Pics by Lea Colombo for Dazed




The Runway Pics come from Style.com

With this collection, the brilliant Mulleavy sisters offer an alternative to the sea-punks and their kitsch imagery by imagining a strong girl with attitude. A modern-day mermaid who unlike Madison in Splash is not naïve and ingenuous but knows how to stand in society and how to be independent. She surely can be dangerous and poisonous but the more important here is that she is incredibly beautiful!




26/10/2014

RAW BUSINESS





NEW LOOK Coat
NEW LOOK T-Shirt
CHEAP MONDAY Jeans
CHEAP MONDAY Necklace
D.I.Y. Brooch
RAY BAN Sunglasses
ZARA Boots


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25/10/2014

W.A.R.M. TOP 10

1/ The Editorial: Karlie Kloss & Joan Smalls by Steven Klein for W Magazine



2/ The Ad Campaign: Alexander Wang X H&M



3/ The Collab: Simone Rocha X J Brand



4/ The Movie Trailer: Avengers - Age of Ultron





5/ The Model: Mica Arganaraz [pic by Sebastian Kim for Vogue Spain]



6/ The Music Video: Mary J Blige - Right Now




7/ The Magazine Cover: Vogue Japan Dec.14 by Giampaolo Sgura



8/ The Fashion Film: Julian Zigerli AW14 "The One and Only" by Golgotha



9/ The Must Have: LOW CLASSIC American Dream Sweater



10/ The Sound: Iggy Azalea feat.  - Beg For It






24/10/2014

COME ON KYE! LIGHT MY FIRE!

Nobody owns the street culture or sportswear. There is no king or queen but designers who succeed in creating collections that got that vibe. It's Alexander Wang, it's Shayne Oliver but it's also the Korean designer, Kathleen Kye. She dedicates her brand to high end fashion twisting it with sportswear. Her eponymous brand somehow represents her lifestyle. It is what she wants to wear and it is a reflection of her personality. Yet, Kye is not another sportswear brand. Her aesthetics is unique and her collections always stand out. That's why Kye caught our attention 2 years ago. It is tough for young designers to stand out but she succeeded because she really has something to say. Each of her collections deserves a short piece of writing about it. Her garments produce a nice addiction and there are always many pieces we'd love to wear. Actually, that's the main issue of her Spring Summer 2015 collection because we really want it all!
Bugs are really not are favorite animals. We can almost say that they are the ones we hate the most (sorry for bugs lovers). Thanks to Kathleen Kye, we are probably going to make peace with the bees embroidered on the shirts, jackets, t-shirts and shorts almost like a logo for the next summer collection. The bees are literally flourishing through the flowers on the sharp tailoring pieces that go with tracksuits or wide shorts made of leather with lazer-cut patterns of chains. There is also this explosive hive print giving us the impression that fire walks with these pieces. We love the idea of clothes that set you on fire. That's why Kye is not another sportswear brand! There's a lot of brand with sporty vibe. But, there's no one like Kye.












Pics from Kye Lookbook