W.A.R.M. TOP 10

1/ The Stockholm Fashion Week AW15 Collection: BACK 

Pic by Kristian Löveborg via Rodeo.net

2/ The Trailer: Game of Thrones season 5

3/ The Magazine Cover: Rihanna for I-D Magazine Pre-Spring

4/ The Couture Collection: DIOR

5/ The Copenhagen Fashion Week AW15 Standout LookFreya Dalsjø

Pic via Style.com

6/ The ManifestoWe did Everything Adults Would Do – What Went Wrong @CheapMonday

7/ The Ad Campaign: Public School SS15 by Greg Harris

8/ The One To Watch: Ximon Lee, winner of the H&M Design Award

9/ The Pre-Fall 2015 Collection: Miu Miu

via Style.com

10/ The Gif: GIVENCHY AW15

Gif by Paul Wagenblast via Dazed



KENZO Sweater
COS Polo Neck

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The question of Beauty sits at the core of a designer's dialogue with fashion. This is a large discussion embodied by the notion of masculinity. Every designer has his/her own version of it. There is not a single definition. This question is even more relevant through the AW2015-16 collections. We have already mentioned the über masculinity of Rick Owens. Hedi Slimane has brought up again his skinny boys that could be members of rock band. Celebrating youth and its subculture is the ethos of Saint Laurent, but it's also the likes of Comme Des Garçons, Raf Simons and Gosha Rubchinskiy. Walter Van Beirendonck has played with it calling it explicit beauty. Loewe and Lanvin has portrayed darling boys who are the archetypes of sophistication.

ACNE STUDIOS focuses on the gender duality to have a discussion about masculinity. The silhouettes are slightly elongated and slim mixing sharp tailoring layered over boxy shorts or sporty skinny joggers. The pieces are all statements expressing the clash of gender. The long check top, the oversize patchwork jumper, the slogan giant scarves embody this idea of beauty. It's not femininity and not much femasculinity. "The idea was to give men what make them feel comfortable and secure. English tailoring, donkeys jackets, football. Then, there is the new silhouette of the sport leggings: I want to explore what it means to be masculine, and fit into what we understand as men's style", said Jonny Johansson, the creative designer of Acne Studios. You can find this kind of duality in our wardrobe. This long sleeveless tops, oversize coats or skinny denims. We are into this masculinity. People can find it awkward, but it's a very masculine way of dressing. Of course, there will always be people who will not understand. Those people are just not comfy with their own bodies. That's probably one explanation but frankly, we don't care. The question of beauty is an old debate and there will always be pros or cons. You should wear the clothes you love no matter what people may think.


#PFW AW15 TOP 10

1/ The Collection: WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK 'Explicit Beauty'

Pic by Marie-Amélie Tondu for Dazed

2/ The Must-Have: The Bomber Jackets @JuunJ

Pic by Fernando Uceda for Dazed

3/ The Unexpected Details: The Accessories @ThomBrowne

Pics via NowFashion

4/ The Print: Tattoos by Joseph Ari Aloi aka JK5 @CommeDesGarçons

Pic via Dazed

5/ The Standout Looks: Kenzo

Pic by Fernando Uceda for Dazed

6/ The Story: Gender Duality @AcneStudios

7/ The Beauty: Pat McGrath's masks @Givenchy

Pic via Style.com

8/ The Viral Moment: Raf Simons's Celebration of Youth

Pic by Lea Colombo for Dazed

9/ The Manifesto: Über Masculinity @RickOwens

Pic by Lea Colombo for Dazed

10/ The Tribute: Kim Jones paying homage to Christopher Nemeth @LouisVuitton

Pic by Lea Colombo for Dazed



We are wondering a lot about the name of the Raf Simons AW2015-16 collection. To The Archives No Longer Relevant. We have been speechless and at the same time, dazed and confused. This year is the 20th anniversary of Simons's eponymous brand. The AW2015-16 is an unexpected celebration. Another thoughtful move from Raf Simons who has refused to do a proper party. The collection rejects the idea of going forward, instead it's about going backward to the would be outdated pieces that have made his name shine all around the world, being on everyone's lips. It's not because he has collaborated with Eastpak and Adidas or because of his appointment at Dior, he owes his success thanks to what he did in the past, to the youth subculture he worships, to the young version of him, to the bands he can't stop loving, to his love for arts and architecture, to his passion for unique beauty, to his independence and free will, to his opposition to the system/industry he both loves and hates. All these facts have brought him to the position he now has in the business, have made him win jobs at Jil Sander and Dior. He didn't go to a fashion college but he has an architecture and design training. His creations stand because of this particularity. His outdated archives sound like the expression of modernity. That's the message he focuses on in his new collection, re-editing his non-relevant classics. His clothes embody the idea of make it last, of uniqueness nodding to Martin Margiela. The scribble coats are completely part of this unparalleled vibe as worn over worn, the scriptures will be distorted somehow and it's the same idea that comes with the unrivaled design of these pieces because one will not have the same coats as somebody else. There is also this idea of clothes that are not based on newness for we have already seen the sleeveless coats, the sleeveless jumpers, the slouchy trousers. There is more rawness in the Raf Simons's definition beauty with garments that look unfinished. This 20th anniversary is an anti-fashion celebration and rejects the idea of giving the archetype of a fashion-forward collection. There were no futuristic vibes, no pop culture or no art references. Of course, the models were wearing new Stan Smiths and Ozweego II. Of course, there will be new versions of his iconic shoes, the Response Trail II and new additions such as the Response Trail Robot and the Ozweego Robot. There will be also the commercial version of the runway pieces, meaning new obsessions for us. As the scribbles on the garments suggest, the Raf Simons boys are (and will always be) reminded.

Pictures by Lea Colombo for Dazed


W.A.R.M. TOP 10

1/ The Ad Campaign: SACAI 1st ever Ad Campaign by Craig McDean feat. Julia Nobis

2/ The Music Video: Years & Years - King

3/ The Collabs: Adidas X Raf Simons or X Rick Owens

Raf Simons AW15
Rick Owens AW15

4/ The Fashion Film: Coach presents Spring 2015

5/ The Must-Have: Tigran Avetisyan X Wut Limited Tee-Shirt

6/ The TV Show: Please Like Me, our absolute crush of the moment

7/ The Models: Anna Ewers, Binx Walton & Lexi Boling for Alexander Wang SS15

Pic by Steven Klein

8/ The Song: Giorgio Moroder feat. Kylie Minogue - Right Here, Right Now

9/ The EditorialCommune by Mikael Jansson for Interview Magazine

10/  The Gif: Prada AW15 via Dazed



There were no blood on the dancefloor, but real penises in the RICK OWENS AW2015-16 men's collection yesterday. Is it a kind of new revolution? Owens has been pushing the limits of the menswear wardrobe revealing part of the male body, showing bare legs, chests, tits and now some penises have to follow. What's the point at the end of the day? Owens doesn't need to provoke and be more radical than he already is by showing penises. His garments matter way more than a part of the body. This time it appears that he cannot talk about masculinity without avoiding what is one and perhaps the most flagrant (and trivial) expression of it. People couldn't ignore it because the clothes were draped such as they let free this part of the body like some fetishist glory holes. It's about a real and raw idea of beauty, bare masculinity as Owens is referring to the Greeks as a standard for his definition of beauty. A natural definition of beauty, not shocking nudity! Do not boys have penis? It has surprised us! (Can we say a very "ballsy"/bold collection ;D )We think of beauty as being low, profane, perverse as well as strong, beautiful and we dare say very sexy. The Rick Owens AW2015-16 wardrobe has a great influence not actually upon us but upon the whole industry gathering crowds of hardcore followers always clad in black. Think of all these upcoming brands with the black sporty signature, they all owe to Owens and they are thankful for what he has brought into the industry. The penis on the runway is not to be questioned. Rick Owens isn't looking for gimmick tricks making people talk about it. If penis are relevant for Owens, people could find it not offensive and they will understand. After all, people will first think about these long polo-neck dresses, of these long sock sneakers (his new collab with Adidas), of these long tank top dresses, of these handmade cable knit dresess and jumpsuits and of these stunning priceless coats and jackets. All these pieces were chaotic re-editions of a masculine wardrobe These pieces matter much more than a penis on a runway!   

Backstage pictures come from Dazed Digital by Lea Colombo

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