Martin doesn't go hand in hand with MAISON MARGIELA any longer. It has been removed. Now, it's Maison Margiela meaning the incognito or shadow collective of designers are no longer the trademark of the Parisian house. The appointment of John Galliano at the head of the numerous lines has put an end to it. But the Martin's spirit of the Maison Margiela has survived. Galliano is not much of a show-off designer as he came to take his bow in the white core blouse, dropping the extravagance gimmicks he has been famous for. All these attitudes seem to belong to the past. He has embraced his role focusing on the clothes not on his personality or on what he stands for in the industry. He decided to show in London, the place where he is the most confident on earth, away from Paris, from the week of Couture, from the craziness, from the pressures and from his former employers, from the polemic, from all the things that could have hurt him. He said he understood what happened to Alexander McQueen meaning he is stronger than him. Like the Phoenix, he will definitely rise again, showing all his talent, his magic. He is both the wizard of Oz and a child of the revolution. Accepting the job at Maison Margiela was the best choice bacause he is ready to come back in the arena meaning that he has to face his demons to turn this heavy page. His creativity surely helps him to move forward. The clothes that matter (legacy of Maison Margiela) help him to stay focused. Martin Margiela dedicated his talent to put forward the clothes and the rest is literally less (or not at all) interesting.

His first collection for Maison Margiela is for the Artisanale Line, a laboratory of research on uniqueness, newness, creativeness and boldness. It's not the easiest way to start but surely the best way to establish the direction to follow, to bring up ideas that will be translated for the ready-to-wear lines. The collection is full of clothes for heroes with pieces that matter. Galliano and Maison Margiela are a happy couple. The excess, the chaos, the low and the profane, the audacity, the trivial, the irony, all the features people worship when it comes to Galliano's work matched with the Margiela's aesthetics. yet, there are no Tabis (the iconic Margiela shoes), no beaded masks, no patchwork of unique fabrics. It's still Artisanale and it's Galliano too. The leather skin beige mannequin dress/jackets embroidered with black cars, the sheer nude sleeves with hair finished with Harlequin boots is the first look that is saying a lot of this collection. Galliano has taken control of the house by crashing the legacy, tearing it apart, playing with it, to create something new. Wondering if he has the time to go to the archives of the house. He doesn't need to. He's perfect to destroy and re-build. Think of the bustier black dress that looks like a jacket layered over this nude body. Think of the hand painted dress with the ripped sleeves, the plastic pockets and the brown tulle galore that is dramatically exposed in the back. Think of the black long dress made of scraps of organza and silk wrapping the black model like a beautiful ragged present. The signature masks are becoming giant faces embroidered on a dress or on a coat reminded us of Arcimboldo's portraits. The playfulness core of this collection comes with the low and profane raw fabrics such as plastic, latex and others unknown trash synthetics. Couture can be trashy, dirty and ugly and beautiful as well. Another idea of beauty is embodied by the black sharp tailoring nodding to the house legacy. There's a lot of drama in the most simple pieces such as a black dress, an evening suit, a double breasted smoking, a red carpet long dress and a chaotic red wedding dress closing the collection empowered with a million dollar of jewelries layered, a stunning sheer mask of high end Haute Jewelry craft and a sheer nude sleeve embroidered with pearls and other precious things. Galliano's first show is clearly a success. He has not lost his talent. He's alive. He's relevant for Maison Margiela. No one can doubt about it now. He's the natural heir of the Maison. "So, Enemies of heir, Beware!"

Here are five Looks that matter!

A black draped jacket worn with an embroidered hand-painted skirt, embellished with hair grip fringing, worn over a nude bodysuit, and affixed with a ‘Sea urchin’ brooch. A black feathered headdress and black and nude jacquard platforms with lacquered heels accompany this look

A fully-embroidered A-line coat embellished with lacquered shells in the shape of a face is worn with a lacquered shell-embroidered bra. PVC pockets with exaggerated leather cuffs embellish the jacket, worn with latex stockings and red and nude jacquard Mary-Jane platforms.

A black brocard coat is worn open with a fully embroidered detached sleeve to reveal a wool bustier and fully embroidered ‘dancer’ panties, trimmed with gold hair grip fringing.

A black wool trouser suit with white stitch detailing is worn over a silk tulle blouse. Black velvet and nude jacquard platform heels complete this look.

A full-length red silk velvet dress with side and back keyhole cut-outs is worn with red floral and nude jacquard Mary-Jane platforms with a metallic heel.

Pictures and labels come from the Maison Margiela Facebook page
The collage picture comes from Dazed Digital

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